Floral Hotel · SakaisuJi-Honmachi Osaka

‘Taian’ means ‘big hut’, and indeed this little place has a huge spirit. Recalling the apparent paradox of the tea ceremony, in which a small, spare space is made to feel boundless, the cosy and clean décor is exceptional in its modesty. The cuisine crystallises the skill and passion of Hitoshi Takahata, while the contrast between outward appearance and inner content is a reflection of his philosophy. Cuisine with depths of flavour satisfies the soul.

A willow tree bending to describe an arc is the symbol of the restaurant and the meaning of its name. In this modern sukiya-type interior, the arc bends toward a wickerwork ceiling. Koryu’s location on the river’s edge reminds you that Osaka is known as the ‘City of Water’. The aim of the house is to be true to its Naniwa (Osaka) roots. The sumptuously arranged “Naniwa” sashimi platter is a remarkable sight. Traditional vegetables also befit the Osaka cuisine. Like the willow tree, Koryu applies a supple creative spirit to a solid foundation.

At the start of the 21st century, when the ‘modern Spanish’ trend began, the chef was accumulating experience in Madrid and San Sebastián. Today he parlays Spain’s cuisine of many small dishes into a modern prix fixe menu. Refined tapas, arroz suffused with regional character and plancha-grilled items, flamed to bring out the natural flavour of each foodstuff, showcase the pride the chef takes in his work.

Yusuke Takada unravels the mysteries of the classics while pursuing the modern. Takada is the author of a new French cuisine, one imbued with the essence of Japan. Takada’s aim in using traditional ingredients such as kudzu vine, tofu skin, miso and wasabi is to proclaim the goodness of foodstuffs grown and raised in Japan. Cultural elements from Osaka and his native Amami Ōshima weave together into a story that is unique and fascinating.

Long experience at ristoranti scattered across Italy honed this chef’s culinary instincts, leading him to dishes that blend rustic charm with refinement. Confidence particularly shines in his pasta presentations. Bavettine of dried mullet roe and lime is a signature dish he has served for years. Arranged to mimic a mimosa flower in bloom, the presentation is delightful. Each item is simple yet distinctive.

Staff welcome guests with sprinkled water to banish defilement and with incense to purify the space. The restaurant serves tempura kaiseki featuring bounty of land and sea. Wanmono and sashimi are prepared with orthodox Japanese cuisine in mind; tempura is thinly battered and served one piece at a time. Handmade sweets and tea draw the meal to a close. Like leaves that change throughout the year, the choice of serving vessels and ingredients expresses the seasons.

Situated in a quiet residential district, Sushi Sanshin is only open at lunchtime. The naturally lit interior presents an austere charm. The chef is schooled in the old ways of sushi-making, but weaves in a few tricks of his own. For example, the simmered clam nigiri is carefully prepared with precise knife work and finished with a hint of yuzu. The tamagoyaki, placed on top of the rice like a horse's saddle, conceals a touch of oboro within. Norimaki made with herbs to evoke vegetable flavours is a speciality found only here. Pursuit of the new, tempered by respect for the classics.