Atour Hotel Hangzhou Wulin Plaza Baochu Road

Since 1987, diners have been flocking here for authentic traditional Hangzhou food. The head chef excels at preparing river fish, such as river shrimps in Huadiao wine, a feast of runny roe, briny-sweet meat and mesmerising aromas. With a bit of luck, you will get to savour the tender oily flesh of steamed river eel with Chinese ham – best enjoyed with their home-brewed bayberry wine. Ask the servers about the daily specials.

A landmark of Sichuan cooking from Chengdu, this outpost opened in a beautifully restored, 1930s, Shikumen-style residence. In line with the brand’s ethos, the set menus highlight natural flavours courtesy of refined, well-crafted Sichuan dishes that roll out subtle Hangzhou influences. Depending on the season, premium local produce, like seafood from Jiangzhe, re-creates some of the 24 taste profiles that comprise classical Sichuan cuisine.

The owner, who hails from Shaoxing, insists on driving back to his hometown every other day to source the freshest ingredients for his restaurant – which explains why the menu is handwritten on a white board and different every day. That said, the must-try stinky tofu is a permanent fixture: made with 20-plus-year-old fermenting brine from his family, it has rich deep flavours that complement the lamb brain it is steamed with. Try the river fish, too.

Jade-coloured archways, silk-clad panels and organic light fixtures evoke a classical Hangzhou garden with a stylised touch. Similarly, the seasoned fine dining kitchen team adds novel twists to Ningbo classics. Marinated raw crab in a spicy sour sauce boasts briny sweetness, gelatinous texture and buttery roe. Crispy skin pigeon leg is deboned and stuffed with the bird’s breast; Sichuan pepper cuts through the richness.

The sign says ‘1987’ because that is when the owner became a professional chef. Known for authentic Hangzhou cooking at bargain prices, this neighbourhood joint does not have a paper menu. Pick your own river fish and veggies, and specify how you want them cooked or check out the blackboard for specials. Sweet and sour pork ribs boast a crisp crust covered in a punchy sauce. Finish with sweet glutinous rice wine with osmanthus aroma made from house-made distillers’ grains.

Always jam-packed at mealtimes thanks to tasty dishes at bargain prices, this dinky shop is a favourite with the locals! Wonton and shao mai are the main draws, available in an array of fillings and served in soup or tossed in sauces. Examples include shao mai with juicy pork, diced bamboo shoot wrapped in a paper-thin skin and an exquisitely folded, oversized wonton with salted egg yolk and pork filling. The menu also features tossed noodles.

Ru Yuan stands amid lush vegetation. Though the menu seems to feature familiar dishes like Xihu fish in vinegar sauce or sautéed shrimps with Longjing tea leaves, each one has been extensively fine-tuned and tweaked. The chef’s personal character shines through in the meticulous details. The gold medal braised pork exudes winey aromas; the pork is sliced thinly and shaped into a pagoda for perfect texture and exquisite plating.