Saint-Felicien Kyoto Shijo-karasuma

The house began life as a travelling fishmonger, carrying fish from Wakasa Bay to scattered markets, then gradually transitioned into a restaurant. The sixth-generation head, Motokazu Nakamura, took over the reins having been the only one entrusted with the craft he learned at his father’s side. For the white miso zoni, he only uses water drawn from a well on the premises to dissolve the miso. Sake-grilled tilefish is doused in sake multiple times, piling flavour on top of flavour. The chef tends the kitchen with his son, who trained abroad, passing skills and spirit from one generation to the

The first feature to catch your eye in the tasteful tea-house style interior is the lacquer counter, which the chef polished and coated himself. ‘Kentan’ means ‘the deep pursuit of self-improvement’. The seasonal interior decoration, serving ware and cuisine combine harmoniously to celebrate the history and food culture of Kyoto. Modern cooking techniques are also adopted here, such as grilling over low flame. A place to appreciate Japanese cuisine in a broader context.

Countertop French dining in a merchant’s house with a brick oven. The classic cuisine here is interlaced with woodfire cooking learned in Spain. Shiitake mushroom and shrimp wrapped in pie pastry is a feature menu item. Sauce is thoroughly reduced over the fire, wreathed in smoke from the embers. ‘Ima’ means ‘now’, inviting you to live in the moment. Every dish is imbued with the magic of wood smoke; all focus trained on the moment when the flavour of the ingredients leaps out.

After Ashiya and Gion, the new frontier for Hiroyuki Koshimo is Karasuma. The shop’s previous name, ‘Roiro’, meant ‘Black as Lacquer’, so Koshimo changed it to ‘Pure White’ to set a different tone. Though his technique is French, Koshimo is not limited by genre, incorporating Japanese elements to broaden the expressive range. Risotto in season, prepared with Yosano rice, is a perennial favourite in this lively and hospitable eatery.

Omakase dishes reflect the turning of the seasons; hassun platters convey the month’s events and customs. Dedicated to fresh-from-the-kitchen deliciousness, white rice is served the moment it’s cooked. A generous assortment of accompaniments, such as dried mullet roe, dried baby sardines with pickled plum and savoury seaweed paste, brings joy. ‘Yui’ is short for ‘yuiitsu-muni’, or ‘one and only’. Unique cuisine and unmatched décor captivate diners.

After learning the basics at a ryotei, the chef worked at a kappo, where he discovered how to make dining fun. What he finds compelling about being a chef, he says, is that while the food itself is consumed at once and disappears, the occasion lingers in the memory. His ingenuity comes to the fore in Kyoto cuisine rich in dashi and vegetables. Side dishes such as boiled vegetables and ground soup, skilfully served both cold and warm, make for a treat that is simple yet impressive. Rice cooked in clay pots joins items such as preserves simmered in sweetened soy sauce, dried mullet roe and peppe

Coming from a family of vegetable wholesalers, the chef grew up with fond memories of visiting the market. As an apprentice he frequented marketplaces with his mentor, learning how to recognise good produce, listening to wholesalers and forming bonds of trust. Those days spent with his mentor, driving to the market and shopping for ingredients, may have been the origin of Kyoryori Fujimoto. The menu, rich in vegetables, evokes a sense of both season and the people behind the cuisine.