Hôtel Port Marine - Sète

The name pays tribute to singer-songwriter Georges Brassens, a local lad, and also to Mediterranean cuisine which takes pride of place on the menu, depending on the chef’s mood, (a former Parisian) and the catch of the day. In a quiet side street near the canal, the chef deftly crafts fresh, mainly maritime produce, with a weakness for forthright, no-nonsense flavours such as sashimi of flathead grey mullet and cream of smoked anchovy. We tasted a heart-warming slab of hake served with homemade gnocchi flavoured with wild garlic. Fried squid, risotto and spicy stock is another house specialty.

Close to the famous naval cemetery, this chic, contemporary little place boasts the Mediterranean as its backdrop and a panoramic terrace for fine weather. The restaurant serves exceedingly fresh cuisine focused on market produce and local producers, with a single six-course set menu served at both lunch and dinner. Chef Guilhem Blanc-Brude juggles Mediterranean inspirations and more inventive dishes, such as sea bass cooked scales on, potatoes confit with saffron, hollandaise sauce with wild fennel and dill, and chanterelle pickles. They also have a terrific list of natural wines.

Behind the counter and Japanese kamado (wood-fired stove), a young chef from Montpellier, who trained with Michel Kayser, Gilles Goujon and the Pourcel brothers, cooks everything over an open flame: lightly grilled sea bream served with squash purée, roasted grapefruit and coconut cream; Mediterranean squid seared on the barbecue, rainbow carrots and black garlic emulsion; pear poached in honey and tonka bean for dessert. In the dining room, his cordial wife guides diners through a selection of wines from the South of France.

The Étang de Thau, a major shellfish farming site and lake in Languedoc, famous for its mussels and the legendary oysters of Bouzigues, is also well-known for its biodiversity on land, in the sea and in the airs. So, taking a seat on the terrace overlooking the lagoon is an opportunity not to be missed. Expect to tuck into delicious, ultra-fresh seafood, including oysters, mini squid in garlic and parsley or mussels broiled in garlic butter.