TAP Salaya

When the chef-owner’s family runs a wholesale seafood business, you can guarantee that her menu will be based on great fish and shellfish dishes, with enough choices to keep everyone happy – and at prices that keep everyone returning. Don’t miss the steamed sea bass with lime, or the stir-fried squid with salted egg. It’s a huge operation with four dining areas, but it’s run with reassuringly calm efficiency. Even with all this space, arrive early on weekends to avoid a long wait.

Four times in a decade, this Thai restaurant changed locations before finally opening on the chef-owner’s land in Nakhon Pathom. Each time, regulars followed along for its flavoursome local dishes, including some, like stir-fried sesbania with shrimp paste, that cannot be found elsewhere. The current digs are in an open-air pavilion on a country lane with tranquil lotus pond views. Try the stir-fried pork loin with jaew sauce and the spicy mackerel soup with madan fruit.

This homely spot celebrates seldom-seen Phetchaburi traditions, favouring meat over fish and using prime local produce in time-honoured recipes. The palm-shoot curry, simmered in freshly pressed coconut milk and crowned with smoky grilled pork, whispers sweetness beneath its mellow heat. River prawn, flash-fried and dusted with sea salt, stays springy yet yielding, its coriander-garlic crunch begging for jasmine rice. An honest taste of central Thailand.

With its blue-framed windows, green façade and bright blue door, this welcoming place instantly makes an impression. Inside, raw cement walls and a wooden ceiling make for an industrial yet relaxing vibe. The food, made using fresh ingredients from the northeast, boasts Isan flavours – the som tam and grilled meats are boldly seasoned and well-executed. Generous portions are ideal for sharing, and spice levels can be tailored to your liking.

This gem of a place serves fresh seafood with Thai flavours, featuring house-made curry and chilli paste. Order in advance or call to check availability. Try the stir-fried crab with bird's eye chilli or the non-spicy stir-fried squid with curry powder.

Northern Thai food has a special place in the hearts of locals, but finding good food like this outside the region can be tough. So Huen Lamphun is a gem of a find, to such an extent that large groups from the neighbourhood return in droves. Every dish uses organic vegetables grown onsite. The grilled, fermented northern Thai pork in banana leaf explodes with chilli and garlic. Another favourite is Makwan-marinated grilled chicken with a peppery flavour and herbal aroma.

Simple in its design, with a white pavilion and modest dining tables, the restaurant also offers some outdoor seating. The owners are hands-on, preparing every dish with care. The stir-fried crab has a naturally sweet meat and wok-fried aroma, and is served with glass noodles, spicy chilli and crunchy mimosa. The large butterfly-cut river fish is nicely char-grilled. The grilled river prawns, meanwhile, are clearly the people’s favourite.