Good Space Hotel Yoyogi

The chef’s grandparents’ house once stood on this land. He harboured a lifelong dream of becoming a sushi artisan; the first knife he ever held was a gift from his grandfather. Never forgetting the spirit of the novice, the chef takes an honest, no-nonsense approach to his ingredients. “Letting the ingredients do the talking is not the same as doing nothing,” he says—and indeed, the chef devotes great time and effort to food preparation. As an apprentice, he learned from his mentor that cooking means thinking for yourself. The work of the old days inspires today’s creativity.

‘The look surprises, the taste reassures.’ The chef’s passion for creativity makes his culinary spirit unique. Decoratively arranged sashimi are briefly heated to draw out moisture. The chef doesn’t serve soup dishes, as much of his cooking tailors the dashi stock to each dish. His freewheeling personality makes the evening fun, while the folk-art vibe of the interior, including a chest of drawers inherited from the chef’s grandparents, fills the air with memories and the warmth of family.

The second-generation chef passes on the Catalonian cuisine that the first-generation chef acquired in Barcelona. Salad of sardines and egg like grandma used to make honours the memory of this couple’s mentors. Dried cod and parsley sauce and homemade sausages convey the flavours of Catalonia, while the well-worn pots attest to the popularity of the paella. Cuisine interwoven with warm memories echoes the journey this restaurant has traced.

The team at Den welcomes guests with bright smiles and easy conversation. A playful, inventive menu brings a fresh perspective to Japanese cuisine. The omakase menu begins with monaka, a wafer sandwich filled with foie gras seasoned with miso, along with fruits and vegetables. Fried chicken wing tips are stuffed with iimushi, mochi rice steamed with seasonal toppings. The delight of his guests is what drives the chef. Original thinking gives rise to the sort of fun dining experience only Den can offer.

The round logo on the tabletop menu encapsulates the chef’s vision. The varying thickness of the line suggests contrasts between sharp and subtle flavours; the circle declares that the entire prix fixe menu expresses the cuisine as a whole. Sauces and cooking focus on the classic; the fascination with ingredients is a trait cultivated during the chef’s apprenticeship in France. The combination of the chef’s learned skills and passion for cuisine gives rise to a style all his own.

Prix fixe is the rule here, but with plenty of room for choice. Traditional fare includes favourites such as pâté de campagne, smoked salmon and roast lamb. Standard dishes are always on the menu, constantly being improved as the chef hones his skills with each dish. The chef prepares his creations in silence, the very picture of the craftsman, pouring his passion into simple French cuisine that brings out the native goodness of the ingredients.

Japan and Portugal built a friendship during the Nanban trading era that has never faltered. The two countries share a culinary culture of fish and rice and a love of local cooking enjoyed at the family table. Items served include tempura octopus, char-grilled sardines, takikomi-gohan and gruel-like risotto. There’s also an extensive menu of à la carte options. Like the Portuguese wine, this fare is meant to be shared.