Thapae Gate Lodge

First-timers should order the plain crispy roti with condensed milk to start. The roti dough here is uniquely made without eggs, but slowly cooked to a crispy-chewy perfection in coconut oil. Choose from 20 toppings.

This place specialises in Guay Jub with Sai Ua sausage, served in a unique peppery broth, featuring with crispy pork and pork liver. They also offer another delightful dish: fresh spring rolls, topped with sliced omelette and aromatic sauce.

Located opposite Wat Ket Karam, this humble gem of a shop specialises in khao kriap pak mo – steamed rice dumplings with a truly generous drizzle of fresh coconut milk – and neatly wrapped tapioca dumplings brimming with sweet and savoury pork and peanut.

Eung Kham Sai has been run by the same family for over a century and is still serving up classic Northern Thai recipes handed down the generations. The modest space has traditional decor; large windows frame the view outside. Try the freshly made khao bai, rice wrapped around a pork, fish or beef filling, or the spicy Northern-style curry, made from scratch with local beef brisket and exuding fruity acidity. Some ingredients come from local farms.

Established in 1977 and a local favourite at Thongkam Market, this spot offers tasty and affordable khanom chin (fresh rice vermicelli) with various curries. Try the nam lo, a mix of spicy pork and chicken curry sauces. If noodles aren’t your thing, swap them for rice. Not only are the street food dishes here delicious, but they’re great value too – especially when you consider that side vegetables are unlimited.

With just four large communal tables, Magnolia Café is a simple, cosy spot enlivened by bold colours, vintage décor, and chandeliers. The owner-chef’s exquisite personal collection is on display, and she pays meticulous attention to sourcing high-quality ingredients, some from overseas. Their à la carte menu offers tasty, well presented fare from across Thailand. Dishes are distinguished by vivid, gutsy flavours; fried sun-dried squid with peanut sauce and fresh watermelon with desiccated salmon are exemplars. A complimentary pandan pudding is offered, making for a sweet and satisfying finish.

For decades, this spot has been drawing in loyal fans with its tue ka ko – crispy deep-fried taro with sweet chilli sauce and peanuts. Light, fresh and never greasy, each batch is made to order. The fried tofu is also worth trying. Open only until they sell out, so come early.