Xindao Xitai Xiaozhu Hotel

This flagship of the chain has an elegant but relaxed dining space done out in modern Chinese style. The menu is essentially the same as at other branches, focusing on Taizhou cooking and fish from the East China Sea. But the 28-day-old baby Peking duck, which you have to pre-order, is available exclusively at this location. Try also the duck stew with fish maw and taro – the taro is so starchy and tender that it melts in your mouth.

Vegetarian

Instead of typical Shandong classics, the chef, who hails from the province, champions a menu starring seafood that is shipped from Weihai port daily. The crisp and tangy Laizhou Bay "penis fish" salad on a bed of ice plant tantalises the taste buds. The donkey soup with Solomon's seal and black garlic, slow cooked for over 10 hours, delivers meaty sweetness and a gelatinous texture from the donkey hide, in a space that exudes traditional elegance.

Italian

The cosy, understated space is done out in neutral greys with pops of teal green. The Shanghainese head chef and predominantly Shanghainese kitchen team reinterpret the classics, adding modern twists. Check out the seasonal offerings made with Jiangzhe ingredients that are hard to come by in Beijing. Another highlight is their Shanghainese dim sum, such as xiao long bao and qingtuan (sweet sticky rice dumplings with Chinese mugwort).

A skylight in the pitched roof bathes the main room in natural light; the private rooms and balcony also feel cosy. An inquisitive soul by nature, veteran chef Dai spent time in Japan studying plant-based ingredients. His menu follows the seasons and may include his signature "porcini, green pepper, sea salt" with Yunnan mushrooms chargrilled to impart smoky aromas. The famous tofu is steeped in broth and intoxicating flavours.

This period mansion, complete with a stone garden and carved wooden windows, provides the perfect foil to the restaurant’s polished cuisine. The menu celebrates the all-time favourites of Huaiyang cooking, such as braised pork belly in brown sauce with arrowroot, and sautéed swamp eel in pepper sauce. Hand-peeled lake shrimps with fox nuts boast velvety texture and are best enjoyed with aged vinegar. The seasonal menu is also worth checking out.