New Century Hotel Qianchao Hangzhou

A sign that says "stinky" or "rotten" might not usually sound appetising, but Yue Ji prides itself on the six features of Shaoxing cooking: soy sauce, distillers' grains, rottenness, stench, wine and pickles! Try dishes marinated with distillers' grains sauce, such as duck gizzard or pork tongue and belly. No meal here is complete without the notorious deep-fried stinky tofu and steamed minced pork patty with rotten millefeuille tofu skin. Pre-ordering recommended.

Down an alley near the Drum Tower, a yellow flag heralds the "wonton king", priming diners for the dumpling feast to come. Having retired in 2016, the owner learnt to make wonton from scratch, before opening this shop. The filling is made in-house with freshly slaughtered (not frozen) pork; ultra fresh vegetables and a sprinkle of black sesame seeds impart extra aromas; dried shrimps add umami depth to the broth. The potstickers are tasty, too.

This modern, cosy restaurant sits on the top floor of a shopping mall. The menu showcases the best of Cantonese cooking with sophistication, astuteness and precision. Their dim sum lunch is a must, as are the barbecued meats. The honey-glazed cha siu pork, for instance, boasts the perfect ratio of fat and lean meat, as well as smoky and crispy charred edges. Plum sauce on the side cuts through the richness. Book ahead for private rooms.

For over 20 years, this Hangzhou-style noodle shop has stood out from the competition courtesy of its wide array of toppings, ranging from old-time favourites like shredded pork, pork kidneys and fried eel to more adventurous items such as sliced snakehead fish noodle soup with pickled mustard greens and spices that deliver a fiery, tangy kick. For a sumptuous feast, order marinated chicken’s feet, duck's head or braised ‘lion head’ meatballs on top.

The room sports cultural motifs from the Chaoshan region, including a miniature replica of Guangji Bridge, an icon of Chaozhou. Walk-in diners will be seated in the main dining room and served an à la carte menu. Private rooms must be booked in advance, with a tailored menu. The signature marinated “gelato” raw mud crab boasts creamy roe that melts in the mouth. Also try the double-boiled silkie chicken soup with deer tendon and ginseng.

Nestled in a cultural park, this restaurant is furnished in modern Jiangnan style – round windows, bamboo chairs and bonsai. The menu, too, is rooted in tradition but given a modern twist. Be sure to try the deep-fried stinky tofu with river shrimps; the fermented flavour adds to the overall umami. Stone pot taro is cooked with fried lard for a starchy comfort dish in autumn or winter. Also try the braised pork belly with house-made plum wine.

This restaurant started out as a noodle shop some 20 years ago. What hasn't changed is the authentic and affordable home-style Hangzhou food it serves. Browse the photos on the wall or pick something from the live fish tanks. The oil-blanched live river shrimps are fried until crispy and tossed in a sweet savoury sauce with vinegar and scallions. The steamed pork-filled tofu skin roll with dried fish is another timeless umami-laden classic.