Asia Emperor Hotel

Xingang, in Chiayi County, is famous for its duck thick soup – at Yeh San, you can taste the real thing without travelling there! The owner used to run a duck thick soup shop in Xingang and, when he relocated to Tainan in 2021, he decided to introduce his treasured recipe to locals. The duck is stir-fried in a small pot for lovely wok hei; garlic and bamboo shoots are added for extra depth and aromas. The duck rice is another top choice.

Circa 1949, it was a hawker stall in the Dongmen Traffic Circle before moving here in the 1960s. Now into the second generation, the family business still attracts a loyal fanbase thanks to its duck noodle soup made with the Chinese herb Dang Gui (a.k.a. Chinese angelica root). The amber broth has rounded flavours, a lingering aftertaste and a hint of bitterness. With freshly slaughtered duck and al dente noodles, it makes for a wholesome meal.

With bar stools, a show kitchen and a soundtrack of Mandarin golden oldies, this self-proclaimed lab experiments with noodle recipes from around the world, serving up bold creations that impress with depth and layers of flavours. The menu changes with the seasons, and the same bowl can include produce from different culinary cultures – bopi chillies, red miso, sambal, green papaya and even ratatouille, to name but a few.

The Hongkong head chef worked in Japan and Macau for over 20 years before opening Umami in 2015 as he got hooked on the charm and slower pace of Tainan City upon his first visit. The cosy, wood-clad room is furnished in traditional Japanese style, with meticulous attention to detail. Diners can choose between the omakase menu and the nigiri sushi set: the former comprises multiple courses with sashimi, kappo dishes, tempura and sushi.

Fu Tai Table began as a street vendor over 80 years ago, but not until 2015 did it have a permanent address. It's the perfect place to experience the unique fan zhuo zai culture – diners order a bowl of braised pork rice with several small plates that arrive at the table stacked on top of each other on a tray. Look for the menu on the blackboard. Made fresh daily, the soup with assorted meatballs is also worth trying for its bouncy texture and deep umami.

A household name for over 60 years, Amei was remodelled when it moved to this venue. Red tablecloths add colour to the wood-rich interior. The small menu is big on banquet classics and century-old recipes, combining the natural umami of ingredients with the locals’ love of savoury-sweet dishes. Rou mi xia is a thick broth of diced veggies topped with deep-fried whiskered velvet shrimps from Anping. Ask about items that need pre-ordering when booking.

Fukai means ‘deep’ in Japanese. The room aptly sports a backdrop of rich textures and dark hues and seeks to offer a global experience by way of uniquely local flavours (such as pickled watermelon, salted cabbage or pickled chillies), paired with well-honed European techniques. The 9-course tasting menu changes every quarter to showcase the best seasonal ingredients. The winter menu includes heartwarming soups. For a fee, the main can be upgraded.