Hangzhou FAN ART HOTEL

A sign that says "stinky" or "rotten" might not usually sound appetising, but Yue Ji prides itself on the six features of Shaoxing cooking: soy sauce, distillers' grains, rottenness, stench, wine and pickles! Try dishes marinated with distillers' grains sauce, such as duck gizzard or pork tongue and belly. No meal here is complete without the notorious deep-fried stinky tofu and steamed minced pork patty with rotten millefeuille tofu skin. Pre-ordering recommended.

For over 20 years, this Hangzhou-style noodle shop has stood out from the competition courtesy of its wide array of toppings, ranging from old-time favourites like shredded pork, pork kidneys and fried eel to more adventurous items such as sliced snakehead fish noodle soup with pickled mustard greens and spices that deliver a fiery, tangy kick. For a sumptuous feast, order marinated chicken’s feet, duck's head or braised ‘lion head’ meatballs on top.

Down an alley near the Drum Tower, a yellow flag heralds the "wonton king", priming diners for the dumpling feast to come. Having retired in 2016, the owner learnt to make wonton from scratch, before opening this shop. The filling is made in-house with freshly slaughtered (not frozen) pork; ultra fresh vegetables and a sprinkle of black sesame seeds impart extra aromas; dried shrimps add umami depth to the broth. The potstickers are tasty, too.

This restaurant on a shopping street, with a main dining space on the lower floor and private rooms upstairs, can be tricky to find. Diners come for authentic Ningbo cooking, such as drunken mud whelks, braised vegetables and stir-fried clams in board bean paste with salted potherb mustard greens. Live fish and seafood shipped daily from Zhoushan, Ninghai and Wenzhou are also popular; the steamed river eel in ginger juice has to be pre-ordered.

This no-frills shop is relatively inconspicuous, so, you may well walk right past it without noticing. But those in the know flock here for authentic Xiaoshan cuisine made with the freshest seasonal produce. There is no menu – pick your own food from the counter or ask the owner for recommendations. The must-try steamed miiuy croaker is silky in texture and loaded with umami. Poached free-range chicken and steamed veggies also hit the spot every time.

This household name, famous for home-style Hangzhou cooking, has been around for over 20 years. The dining area occupies two floors, but seating is limited, so expect to queue or share a table at peak hours. The signature cold appetiser of pork kidneys dressed in a sweet tangy sauce is meticulously crafted. Seafood is also their strong suit – try razor clams from the East China Sea sautéed in chilli sauce or scallion oil.

This acclaimed eatery prides itself on its home-style dishes. Expect queues at mealtimes! The juicy chicken dressed in scallion oil exudes heady aromas. Steamed vegetarian chicken and bamboo shoots with dried pork marinated in soybean paste evoke childhood memories for many a Hangzhou local. Freshwater fish is another strong suit – check out the bream, eels and crabs in the fish tank at the entrance and ask the servers the best way to have them cooked.