Marunouchi Hotel

The concept is ‘a place that weaves a tale of an encounter between earth and sea’. ESTERRE expresses the terroir of Japan through the supervision of Alain Ducasse, a legend of the gastronomic world. Entrusted with the kitchen is Kei Kojima, who conjures fare that is both healthful and flavourful. Vegetables, selected in the markets of Kamakura, are colourful and fresh. Ingredients wreathed in the fragrance of a charcoal flame display a quintessentially Japanese approach.

‘Circular gastronomy’ from the chef of Mirazur in southern France. Prix fixe menus are composed from four themes—roots, leaves, flowers and fruits—expressing the beauty of nature and the cycle that happens in our world. The fare is modern French woven from Japanese ingredients, but it also beguiles with influences from the chef’s native Argentina, such as tapas and asado. Having stretched out his roots in southern France and budded leaves of creativity, the chef has blossomed in Otemachi.

Chef Guillaume Bracaval expresses the Japanese landscape in his cuisine. Travelling across the country to familiarise himself with ingredients, he experienced its abundant nature first-hand. The map of Japan indicating where all his ingredients come from traces his journey. Wanting to create delicate and healthy dishes, he limits his use of butter and cream. Desserts inspired by contemporary art are highly original. Perched on the hotel’s top floor, the dining room affords stunning views of the city below.

Seiji Yamamoto charts the vastness of Japanese cuisine. He handles his knives and tends his charcoal grill with relentlessly honed technique. He elucidates the properties of each ingredient and the best ways to prepare it with a scientific eye, displaying unwavering resolve. His winter menu is replete with fugu items, products of years of experience and passion for Japanese cuisine. Disarming frankness shines in Yamamoto’s favourite expression: ‘I’m a chef because I love cooking.’ From January to March, RyuGin offers only the exclusive fugu course.

A man of few words, the chef fixes his attention on his grill. He focuses on every detail of yakitori—the state of the charcoal, how the skewers are assembled and grilled—pursuing the subtleties of a cuisine. His favoured type of chicken is game fowl, prized for its supple texture and rich flavour. It is seasoned with a salt base and modulated with added chicken fat or vinegar, then wreathed in smoke as it cooks on the grill. Skewers are interspersed with chicken-based snacks such as cold chicken breast and mincemeat potato salad. A procession of dishes of lively originality.

In Kyoto, the chef acquired knowledge of Japanese cuisine; in his native Shiga, the uniqueness of fondly remembered country cooking. The sprouting of flowering plants, the spirit of wild animals, the shifting of the seasons in the rural hillscapes, all have their say in the menu. The vividly colourful hassun platters are lavish yet delicate. The intention in hot-pot cooking is to bring a party together through the magic of a single flavour. Gracious service, sparing no detail, is the true pleasure here.

Satoru Asahina pursues a gastronomy of ‘traditional heritage with modern innovation’. He delves into the history of French cuisine to reconstruct ancient recipes with his own interpretations. The prix fixe meal begins with a colourful amuse-bouche and proceeds to plates adorned with multi-layered culinary creations. Consommé pressed through a siphon with a flourish and desserts paraded on trolleys catch the eye. Classic cuisine tuned up to point to the future.