9h nine hours Suidobashi

Experimentation with new flavours blows winds of innovation into Japanese cuisine. The chef’s purview extends to Western ingredients such as truffle and caviar. Reverence for dashi, however, keeps his dishes within the bounds of Japanese cuisine. The chef treads a unique path, weaving creativity and Western flamboyance into Japanese fare. The counter seats are always fully booked but, with luck, a cancellation might make the private dining room available.

Thai culinary culture interpreted through Japanese ingredients. She moved to Bangkok and honed her culinary skills, now offer her cuisine prix fixe. Chopped mix of pomelo and seafood derives from the table of the royal court; rice vermicelli yakisoba is inspired by Bangkok street food. Curries are prepared with fresh-pressed coconut milk. Regional cuisines are reproduced using fermented or matured homemade seasonings. KHAO overflows with inquisitiveness and passion for Thai cuisine.

Amid the refinement of a dignified tea arbour, the chef cooks with sincere devotion. His attentiveness derives from his early work at a ryotei, where he was a doorman in charge of footwear. Tanimoto’s forte is charcoal grilling, preparing each ingredient with the strictest attention. The meal ends with a generous lineup of various rice dishes including, white rice, takikomi-gohan and chazuke, followed by tea poured by the chef himself. The spirit of graceful service brings satisfaction to the depths of the soul.

‘Fushikino’ is a mashup of two words, one referring to a Zen phrase, and the other meaning ‘mysterious’. Together, they suggest things that never before existed. The restaurant’s aim is to create something unprecedented, an unexpected culinary experience made possible through the trinity of food, sake and utensils. The menu lists familiar items of Japanese cuisine, but one-of-a-kind touches manifest in subtle details, such as onion soy sauce and aged ponzu sauce. Drink pairings of one cup per dish, served in sake cups lovingly produced by modern artists, are an entertaining grace note.

The name ‘L’ÉTERRE’ is a mashup of two French words: ‘l’éterne’ meaning ‘eternity’, and ‘la terre’ meaning ‘the earth’. It encapsulates the restaurant’s determination never to stop gathering the bounty of the earth and crafting delicious cuisine from it. Japan is a country surrounded by sea, and L’ÉTERRE makes full use of this, focusing on seafood dishes. Vegetables and meat highlight the abundance of their terroirs, grilled sometimes over charcoal or firewood, sometimes over straw. Time-honoured cooking methods are eternal as well.

Having been born and raised overseas, the chef chose the path of the sushi artisan out of a desire to work in a field that involves Japan’s traditions and culture. Among the appetisers, standard items include simmered monkfish liver and steamed abalone. Sushi toppings start with the subtler flavours and proceed to bolder ones, paired with white-vinegar or red-vinegar sushi rice according to topping. Pioneering directions in modern sushi include squid glazed with salt water mixed with white birch sap and conger eel paired with an herbal liquor reduction.

A ‘sugidama’, a traditional ball made from sprigs of Japanese cedar, hangs from the eaves of a house with a unique green décor. The restaurant is the creation of Milan-based Yoji Tokuyoshi and the concept is ‘Italian food with Japanese ingredients’. To draw out the delicious flavour of ingredients in season, preparations are kept simple. A menu focused on à la carte selections encourages guests to enjoy freely. The richly seasonal menu offers something new to discover on every visit.