LES AIRS

Come here for no-frills dishes at sensible prices. The bright, airy dining area extends over two floors, with the main dining room on the lower floor and private rooms upstairs. Warm wood tones impart Wenzhou charm with a modern spin. The menu is seafood-centric as the tanks near the entrance illustrate. Take your pick and check the blackboard for ways to prepare them. Signatures include glass noodles with sea anemone.

Located in a bustling part of the city, this cosy restaurant has enjoyed substantial success almost since it opened. The seafood displayed in the live fish tanks at the entrance is superlative. In addition to signatures like seaweed sausage and fish cake, also try the steamed crab with pork belly strips and fermented shrimp paste: the porky richness deftly complements the seafood umami. Sensible prices are another strong selling point.

For over 20 years, this shop specialising in pork offal and blood curd noodle soup has been a favourite with the locals. Their broth, made with pork bones, sports a hint of sweetness. Soft but chewy intestine, jiggly blood curd and slippery rice noodles present a mouth-watering ensemble. Their house-made wheat pancakes are also a must – try the salted mustard green and fatty pork variety that packs big flavour and briny richness.

This shop dates back to 1891; its founder made nightly rounds with wonton soup hanging from a bamboo pole carried on his shoulder. It is now run by the fifth generation owner who still makes wontons like his great-great grandfather did. The skin is translucent and velvety, the pork filling is lightly seasoned to highlight natural flavours, the broth is crystal clear with winey sweetness, while laver and shiitake add depth and umami. A simple treat that everyone enjoys.

Locals can’t get enough of the authentic, super fresh seafood here that is geared towards the local palate. Spanning the ground floor of two buildings, the main dining room is colossal and there are 60+ private rooms of all sizes. Pick your favourite critter from the tank and tell the wait staff how you want it cooked. Specialities include steamed mud crab with sweet potato brimming with crab roe and river eel braised in yellow wine that boasts fine texture.

You can’t miss this noodle shop – just look for the queue. It’s hugely popular with the locals and always busy. The signature beef offal rice noodle soup is the must-try. The offal is braised in marinade until tender and flavoursome and ideal to pair with umami-laden beef bone broth and velvety rice noodles. For a special occasion, order other beef cuts to go with your noodle soup. Try the ribs with a fat cap that keeps the meat moist.

This unassuming shop has won the hearts of local gourmets with its signature noodle soup topped with brown croaker bone or brown croaker head. Both are deep-fried until crispy and cooked with garlic, onion and carrot into a rich dense broth. Other toppings include seafood, offal and meat. Spiced soy-braised pork cheek boasts springy skin and tender meat. They also excel at turning brown croaker scraps and trimmings into tasty snacks.