Swing & Pillows - 87 Chulia St, Georgetown Penang

This shop specialises in Nyonya kueh – an array of cakes, dumplings, puddings and pastries that can be sweet or savoury, and steamed, deep-fried or baked. All their treats are made just as they were back in 1933, when the owner's father opened a kueh factory. In addition to kueh lapis, kueh talam, ang koo and Nyonya chang, they also serve a few Nyonya dishes. Enjoy your meal beneath a glass roof and Penang-style umbrellas in the converted patio.

Chinese couplets on the wall and red tablecloths lend the clean, simple space a festive vibe. Open since 1965, this no-frills joint has won the hearts of foodies, with well-made traditional Cantonese fare and fusion creations with a local twist. The deep-fried house-made tofu with dried local anchovies is a must – it's simply seasoned with soy sauce, but the umami is irresistible. Ask about the double-boiled soup of the day, which never disappoints.

“Bibik” is an honorific used to address older Peranakan women, and the room is aptly decorated with classic Nyonya motifs. Naturally, the menu showcases the owner’s heirloom Peranakan recipes that are slightly less spicy than their counterparts elsewhere. Dishes come in three sizes – try their jiu hu char (stir-fried yam bean with shredded cuttlefish), and loh bak (deep-fried five-spice pork rolls).

This friendly family-run shop, now in the second generation, specialises in koay teow th'ng, served in soup or dry. The broth is made from chicken and pork bones. The springy tendon balls have a nice ginger flavour. A tasty option is the braised chicken with bean sprouts.

Using chicken and seafood instead of pork, this charming café serves halal Malaysian-Chinese fare. The owner started the business as a street stall back in 1992 and now runs it with her son and daughter. Her char kway teow is sautéed with minced garlic rather than lard, in a secret soy sauce blend that tastes spicy-sweet. Made fresh daily, the broth for her hae mee is bursting with seafood umami; the home-made curry paste adds a kick to the noodles.

This popular food cart dates back to 1960 and is now run by the third-generation owner. Koay teow soup with chicken, pork, fish balls and pork liver is the must-try. The chicken feet braised in spiced soy marinade are simply divine.

With a caricature of the owner on its sign and a mural deconstructing its signature items, Laksalicious is a cheerful little gem bubbling with character. As its name suggests, laksa is the main event here – choose between Nyonya assam laksa with sour, spicy fish broth or Nyonya laksa lemak with rich, creamy coconut milk broth. Prawn crackers add texture and flavours. Crispy prawn fritters, nasi ulam and gula melacca cendol are also popular.