LUMI WEST LAKE APARTMENT

Gia đình, meaning "family", is a reference to chef Sam Tran and partner Long Tran's longing for their homeland during their years working abroad. The restaurant decor draws inspiration from the Temple of Literature just across the road. A single tasting menu is offered, showcasing the finest seasonal ingredients and drawing inspiration from the rich heritage of traditional Vietnamese cuisine. Deceptively complex, the beautifully crafted dishes showcase well-judged combinations of subtle flavours, with acidity and texture playing prominent roles.

Now with a two-storey expansion and lush courtyard, English-speaking staff and a photo menu, this vintage tea house is more tourist-friendly. It retains its North Vietnamese charm with antique decor, artwork and a rustic elegance, and continues to impart the essence of Vietnamese cuisine. Highlights include chả ốc (ham with periwinkle snails) served with herbs, vegetables, vermicelli and fish sauce, and the subtle crab soup with malabar spinach in a clear broth.

Named after a significant year in Vietnamese history, this easy-to-find restaurant sits tucked away in a narrow alley, marked by its bright yellow-and-green townhouse. Nostalgic décor, old wooden tables and vintage photographs add to the charm. Start with the green banana blossom salad with beef, a refreshing combination of tender meat and sweet-sour dressing. The signature fried crab and rice porridge hot pot is the main draw, bringing together crab, pigeon, beef balls and vegetables in a naturally sweet, comforting broth. English menus are available, and booking ahead is recommended.

Built on devotion, this kitchen pays homage to the traditional home cooking of Vietnamese mothers. The chef brings a decade of experience to bear in a repertoire of nearly 100 dishes covering Southern, Central and Northern specialities, each gently cooked with authentic seasonings that preserves their rustic character. In the clam broth, brightened with tomato and pineapple, the clams are deliciously tender, and sweet and sour flavours are expertly balanced.

This stall is famous for its bún chả (rice noodles with fresh herbs and pork), chargrilled to order. Dip the noodles in the flavoursome broth and feel free to order an extra spring roll for added crunchiness.

Khôi Hói means bald head, referring to the owner’s hairstyle. Come here for phở – beef noodle soup. There are many cuts to choose from, including rare cuts like beef heel muscle. You can also specify how you like your beef cooked.

Early risers delight in this beef phở haven, open from 5:30am until mid‐morning, when beef cuts and broth are sold out. Fresh ingredients shine in the signature beef heel muscle, which boasts tender meat and gelatinous tendon with a pleasant chew. Order phở with eggs and fried dough, just like the locals.