Moon walks slowly

Fu Tai Table began as a street vendor over 80 years ago, but not until 2015 did it have a permanent address. It's the perfect place to experience the unique fan zhuo zai culture – diners order a bowl of braised pork rice with several small plates that arrive at the table stacked on top of each other on a tray. Look for the menu on the blackboard. Made fresh daily, the soup with assorted meatballs is also worth trying for its bouncy texture and deep umami.

A household name for over 60 years, Amei was remodelled when it moved to this venue. Red tablecloths add colour to the wood-rich interior. The small menu is big on banquet classics and century-old recipes, combining the natural umami of ingredients with the locals’ love of savoury-sweet dishes. Rou mi xia is a thick broth of diced veggies topped with deep-fried whiskered velvet shrimps from Anping. Ask about items that need pre-ordering when booking.

Circa 1949, it was a hawker stall in the Dongmen Traffic Circle before moving here in the 1960s. Now into the second generation, the family business still attracts a loyal fanbase thanks to its duck noodle soup made with the Chinese herb Dang Gui (a.k.a. Chinese angelica root). The amber broth has rounded flavours, a lingering aftertaste and a hint of bitterness. With freshly slaughtered duck and al dente noodles, it makes for a wholesome meal.

The owner had been selling fried eels and squids for ages before he started serving migao by chance in 1985. Surprisingly, his sticky rice topped with braised pork, sliced cucumber, fish floss and peanut quickly surpassed his original offerings in popularity – and he has focused on migao and sishen herbal soup ever since. The gravy on his migao has a peppery aroma to go alongside the rich and deep flavours.

Its hallmark beef soup is simmered with beef bones, brisket, fat and onion and thin slices of lean beef are added just before serving. Pour on a dash of rice wine for extra fragrance or dip the beef in the fiery homemade chilli sauce for a kick. The broth delivers serious umami, while the sliced beef is tender and flavourful. To sample the varied textures and flavours of different beef cuts, also try cold beef appetisers and stir-fries.

This century-old Chinese medicine shop was converted into a restaurant specialising in therapeutic food. The sixth-generation owner intentionally kept the apothecary cabinets and used some inscribed plaques as dining tables. Eight tonic soups are offered each day, all tasty and mild in herbal flavour – refer to the menu for their medicinal actions. Make it a complete meal by ordering a set – with noodles tossed in sesame oil, a drink and sweet soup.

A devotee of the goddess Mazu, the owner-chef picked this space near the Grand Mazu Temple for his venture. Motifs of the goddess are dotted throughout the restaurant, from its sign to the shrine-inspired décor. Home-style cooking is kicked up a notch with a touch of sophistication. Leafy greens deftly meld the depth and umami of the fresh, salted and thousand-year egg trio. Try the squid and whelk soup, a classic banquet dish rarely found in Tainan. Closed during Mazu festivities.