DEL style Osaka Higashi Temma by Daiwa Roynet Hotel

Located close to the beloved Osaka Temmangu Shrine, the ‘Yu’ in the restaurant’s name is a character in the name of the chef’s mentor. Apprenticing at an old-school Osaka kappo, the chef learned not only cooking skills but also the bold spirit of a chef who holds court behind the counter. Courteous yet charming, his gregarious manner keeps the conversation flowing. The format is omakase, but with the flexibility to indulge diners’ whims.

Japanese cuisine reflects a spirit of gratitude for the bounty of nature and of prayer for people’s happiness. The chef values that spirit, pouring it into every dish he makes. The menu, woven from annual festivities, unfolds as a tale of the seasons. Skills honed at a ryotei live in the chef’s painstaking preparation and every detail of arrangements. The origins and customary usages of each cup and plate, related by the proprietress, add grace notes to the meal.

‘Sui’ means ‘green’. The chef chose the name so as not to forget where he came from, as his birth month and the day he went independent were both in the season of fresh green leaves. Having apprenticed under a Naniwa kappo mentor, the chef believes in a Japanese cuisine that thinks outside the box. Guests can choose an extra side dish, with Western‑style options such as crab cream croquettes and beef cutlet also available. Enjoy pairings with not just sake but a selection of wines as well.

The chef interprets the seasons through kaiseki, adding twists and tricks that make the cuisine his own. To express each season, appetisers are accompanied by leaves collected on hill and dale and a slim strip of paper is inscribed with a seasonal phrase. White rice, cooked in clay pots, is specially selected and treated. Rice grown in serpentinite soil, with its rich mineral content, is seasoned with salt and soy sauce to bring out umami and flavour. In a unique touch, scorched rice is served like a rice cracker. The basics of Japanese cuisine are safely guarded, yet imagination has room to r

Sea bream is marinated in kombu, gizzard shad in vinegar; sushi rice is seasoned with red vinegar and salt. The scrupulous training the chef received as an apprentice pervades every aspect of the restaurant. Nigirizushi begins with pale white-flesh fish. Tuna, served three pieces in succession, leaves an impact. Sushi rice is served on the warm side, the better to bring out the sweetness of the fish oil. Simmered conger eel brings the meal to a close, as in the old days. The restaurant stands on the river’s edge, so you can watch the boats plying the waters below as you dine.

In Italy, the chef experienced the fierce pride the Italians have in their home regions. Deeply impressed by the unique cuisines of people who produce and consume locally all their lives, he set his sights on combining Japanese sensibilities with Italian cooking. One example is anago carpaccio: deboned conger eel accompanied by tomato and bagna càuda. The focus on seafood derives from his love of the bounty of the sea, learned at his grandmother’s house in Okinoshima.

The purely Japanese interior, with its orderly row of lacquer trays, is a setting fit for a kappo. The chef’s kaiseki experience manifests everywhere in the restaurant’s offerings. The name-brand chicken he uses is tender and richly flavoursome. Salt is used with restraint; instead, a light dipping sauce brings out the native flavour of the chicken. Breast meat fried with crumbled rice crackers and rice cooked with seasoned chicken mince are ideas that spring from Japanese cuisine. The restaurant’s name means ‘chicken artisan’, and it’s not hard to see why.