BI&BI

While it would be easy to do, to pass by this unassuming-looking restaurant near the Basilica would be a mistake. The kitchen here sources top-class ingredients, treats them with the utmost respect and allows them to shine. Subtle Hungarian influences run throughout dishes which are well-conceived, skilfully executed and have a notable intensity of flavour. There is an à la carte, but go for the tasting menu for the best experience. Wines are key here too: they offer 100 labels, including some of Hungary’s top producers, with many available by the glass.

A central glass-walled kitchen is the focal point of this eye-catching modern restaurant; a dining room sits either side, and there’s a chatty buzz to the room, which is helped along by the personable service team. The two experienced chef-owners are proud of their Hungarian roots and skilfully reinvent and modernise classic Hungarian dishes using a wide range of techniques. The wonderfully rich gulyás soup and the soft, flavoursome venison are hits, as is the ever-present somlói dessert. When it comes to wine, look to the Hungarian options – there are some great sweet Tokajis on the list.

After travelling the world, Chef Jenő returned home to open this unique restaurant. Located in the heart of the city, it comes with concrete walls hung with mirrors, and a 21-seater counter which wraps around the large open kitchen. Red leather stools and placemats provide colour, while a trendy soundtrack adds to the vibe. The set menu showcases elements from Jenő’s travels via a series of refined, creative, sometimes playful dishes that burst with flavour. These are matched by some serious wine pairings, with the Hungarian option offering some wonderfully unique, bespoke choices.

Within a boutique hotel sits this small, sophisticated restaurant, whose open kitchen forms an integral part of the stylishly lit room. Shelves are full of jars containing colourfully preserved foraged fruits, vegetables and herbs, and the butter, lardo and Mangalitsa ham are all produced in-house. The surprise set menu is made up of intricate, exquisitely constructed dishes – many of which are updated versions of classic Hungarian recipes – and tables all face the wood-clad ‘pass’, where the chefs assemble the dishes in front of your eyes with skill and dexterity.

Set within the former Goldberger textile factory, Goli refers to the nickname the locals gave to this historic building. It’s a small place with a simple terrace and a colourful, cramped interior, but it’s gloriously friendly and positive vibes simply pour out of the kitchen. Sit at the counter to talk with the chefs, who are eager to guide you through the menu of fresh, tasty Middle Eastern favourites, from warm pita, vibrant salads, and green beans with chilli and lemon, to charred entrecôte with tahini. Deliciously fruity soft drinks and cocktails complete your meal.

Elegance and sophistication lead the way at Costes, from the smart décor to the well-orchestrated service. Ask for a seat to the front of the main room for a feeling of space, then enjoy the eager anticipation as the sommelier presents an exceptional, mostly Hungarian wine selection. The modern 7 course tasting menu comprises memorable dishes which not only look stunning with their bright colours and artistic style, but are packed with vibrant, complementary flavours. Seasonality plays an important role here too, with the featured ingredients always informing you of what’s in season right now.

As its name implies, caviar plays a starring role here, with a range of almost 20 Hungarian and Siberian options on offer, as well as two different caviar tasting experiences. French and Russian influences guide the cooking, with the à la carte featuring a selection of dishes which have appeared on the menu since their opening under the heading 'Since 1990', and the tasting menu showcasing the chef's favourite creations. Sit in the opulent, richly appointed dining room or the more modern extension which opens out onto the garden – or book the Chef’s Table to really get in on the action.