Gion Shirakawa - Vacation STAY 24783v

The aesthetic of ‘wabi-sabi’, restraint and impermanence, breathes in the walls of this veteran ryotei. The garden of moss-covered stone lanterns and washbasins, channels flowing with clear streams from Lake Biwa and a still, quiet tea arbour all give it a shadowed atmosphere. Hyotei eggs are a tradition handed down through generations from the founder. Eiichi Takahashi changed the dashi from dried bonito to dried tuna; tomato and soy sauce gracing Akashi sea bream sashimi is a permutation courtesy of the current chef, Yoshihiro Takahashi. Over the years, layers of innovation build up to cater

The name is a mashup of ‘Luna’ and ‘Terra’, Earth and Moon – a trip around the world that starts here. The theme is a showcase of season and culture. Combining the seasons of Japan with food cultures from countries around the world, the restaurant concocts dishes of exuberant creativity. Uniquely, main dishes are crafted with vegetables from Ohara and Fushimi, and grilled onigiri caps the meal. The many and varied pairings are a source of delight.

Kikunoi is spreading the word worldwide about the allure of Japanese cuisine. Yoshihiro Murata sets his sights on innovation while evangelising Kyoto’s graceful ryotei culture. Occasionally Western ingredients get added to the mix, infusing a contemporary sensibility. Change accumulates in layers here, as a result of shifting personnel: Chef Murata invites trainees from overseas to pass on to them the true nature of Japanese cuisine and Japanese traditions of service. Fixing his gaze on the future of Japanese cooking, Murata cultivates the next generation of chefs.

The menu is always original, thanks to the insatiable curiosity of the chef. Declining to be bound by Japanese cuisine, he makes pleasing diners his top priority instead. Rice paper rolls, an idea from Vietnam, are made with Japanese ingredients that change with the season. Meals conclude with dishes such as spicy curry rice or rice topped with raw egg and XO sauce. A freewheeling imagination entices with familiar ingredients such as dashi and miso used in unpredictable ways.

The restaurant is temporarily closed. It's planned to reopen in September. Shizuo Miyamoto’s quest is for his own style of Chinese cooking with a seasonal aesthetic. Fish in season is stir-fried with chilli peppers; spring rolls are wrapped in three types of ingredients, so each mouthful tastes different from the one before. Counter seating, right in front of the kitchen, builds diners’ anticipation amidst the clatter of woks and aroma of food. At ‘Kyo Seika,’ graciously hosted by the Miyamoto couple, lively conversation between the veteran chef and his guests imparts joy to the meal.

Flowers are arranged, the ceremonial space is well appointed, serving vessels are carefully chosen. The tea ceremony spirit pervades Gion Maruyama’s graceful service. The Gion location is a ryotei but, in a modern touch, it also features counter seating. The chef has spent many years seeking out delicious flavours. He spells ‘oishii’ (good-tasting) the old-fashioned way, with the characters that mean ‘beautiful’ and ‘taste’, recalling the sensibilities of an older time. ‘Flavour, not seasoning’ is the chef’s credo. Devotion to Kyoto cuisine that reverberates in all senses.

‘Strive for simplicity, elevated by technique’ is the chef’s credo. Prizing seasonal flavours above all, he visits production areas the length and breadth of Japan. At first glance, the food arrangements and serving-ware appear ordinary, but each detail reveals the meaning of Japanese cuisine and patiently cultivated skill. Experience the graceful culture and hospitality of the tea ceremony, learned at a long-established ryokan, in a counter dining setting.