second inn umeda

The tempura fried by the chef as his heart dictates comes out refined. To bring the flavour of carefully selected ingredients, the main oil of choice is Taihaku sesame oil. The coating is infused with bubbles, giving it a light texture. In a distinctive presentation style, seafood and vegetables that work well together are served in alternating pairs. The final dish is the guest’s choice of tendon, tempura over rice; tencha, tendon steeped in roasted green tea; or tenmusu, onigiri filled with shrimp tempura. The chef does not neglect training the next generation, either, entrusting understudie

Over half a century since he opened his restaurant, Yoshifumi Mori remains vigorously engaged in food preparation. His passion seems unquenchable: with rice flour and salt, he created a seasoning that melts away like snow. He makes wine and even grows rice. Scouring every region of Japan, the chef seeks out unknown ingredients and introduces them to the world. All this has led to Mori being honoured by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries. Like a steel plate polished until gleaming, he continues to sharpen his culinary sensibilities.

Dinner at Iroha should be a once-in-a-lifetime experience, the chef decrees, so he lavishes his guests with the flavours of what’s in season. The extensive menu and the chef’s endless ingenuity testify to this commitment. An arranged sashimi dish is prepared using the techniques of skin searing, skin boiling, and kombu pickling. The popular beef cutlets are a hearty meat dish, ensuring that everyone leaves feeling satisfied. True to the restaurant’s name, which means ‘coloured leaves’, dishes are decorated with leaves of the season.

The name means ‘spirit of fun’ and also refers to the chef’s given name, Shintaro. All occupations have their joys and sorrows, but the chef maintains a spirit of fun. At the same time, he never forgets reverence for tradition. Lacquered wooden trays and dishes garnished with flowers convey each season. Self-expressive yet respectful of traditional boundaries, his goal is the evolution of Japanese cuisine. Cuisine is a mirror of the soul; joy itself.

An artwork resembling a planet dominates the dining room. Look closely and the ‘planet’ contains overlapping images of cuisine, which gather together to form a picture of the Earth. ‘Dialogue with the Earth’ is, indeed, the theme of this restaurant. The experience of growing up amid the beauty of nature shaped the bold world view of Hajime Yoneda. The digitised recipes and detailed cuisine attest to his experience as a system engineer. Cuisine that draws inspiration from all Creation is imbued with love and respect for nature.

The gastronomy of Chef Tatsuhiro Takayama blends a passion for learning from nature with a modern sensibility. To attune his work to the sense of the seasons, he adds layers of texture. His spring ‘Sakuraniku, Sansai’ accents the bitterness of spring vegetables with the texture of buckwheat groats. The menu lists only the ingredients, as a mark of respect to the foodstuff producers. Natural rock tables and wooden ornamental plates eloquently convey the chef’s love of nature.

The restaurant aspires to cheerful Chinese fare that delights with fun and surprises. The appetiser assortment offers a tour of China’s regions, each inspired by hometown cooking. A touch of variation appears in every dish: beef and green pepper stir-fry is cooked over low heat; crispy pork is wrapped in crepe. The word ‘Garan’ in the name means ‘a place where monks gather’, reflecting the house’s practice of serving everyone at once. After dinner, the guests assemble around a table to relax over Chinese tea and share the warmth of the moment together.