NAGAHORI HAIRU DOTONBORI CONDO

Hanging in the kitchen is a framed calligraphy motto bearing the phrase ‘Hakuraku no ikko’ -a reference to distinguishing true quality. It reflects the chef’s wish to keep improving so as to earn the respect of his diners. For the chefs, the plain wood counter is the stage on which they perform as one cohesive unit. Food and dishware captivate with seasonal combinations. The hassun is especially attention-grabbing: beauty sculpted from the bounty of land and sea, where both rich and light coexist. Guests here are welcomed with carefully prepared dishes.

Out of childhood experiences and the landscapes of rural valleys, the chef creates cuisine that reverberates in all five senses. The spectacle of colourful arrangements, the sound and texture of each bite, the aroma, and of course the taste all harmonise and sizzle as one course follows another. The couple who run the kitchen deliver an illustrated message to the table as a sign of the season.

The owner-chef teases out subtle flavours with a versatile sensibility and technique honed in Kyoto. He takes particular care when blending his dashi. Prepared with a light flavour, it draws out the character of each ingredient. Flavours of other ingredients transfer to the dashi in wanmono, steamed items and takiawase, lending depth to their taste. Preparations are simple, yet unseen tweaks make each item unique. Admire antique serving-ware and vessels fashioned by modern artists as you savour the tastes of the season.

Dreaming up cuisine that matches the food to the guest is the mission of this Naniwa kappo. The menu’s called ‘Yuno’s omakase’ proclaiming a free-and-easy approach that strays from the norms of Japanese cuisine. Sashimi assortments are paired with onion dipping sauce or condiments; grilled items are dressed with vegetable sauces. Fishbone broth used in hot-pot fare attests to the restaurant’s spirit of wasting nothing. Come to enjoy the chef’s playful spirit and flavours of Osaka expressed through quality ingredients.

Long experience at ristoranti scattered across Italy honed this chef’s culinary instincts, leading him to dishes that blend rustic charm with refinement. Confidence particularly shines in his pasta presentations. Bavettine of dried mullet roe and lime is a signature dish he has served for years. Arranged to mimic a mimosa flower in bloom, the presentation is delightful. Each item is simple yet distinctive.

Yusuke Takada unravels the mysteries of the classics while pursuing the modern. Takada is the author of a new French cuisine, one imbued with the essence of Japan. Takada’s aim in using traditional ingredients such as kudzu vine, tofu skin, miso and wasabi is to proclaim the goodness of foodstuffs grown and raised in Japan. Cultural elements from Osaka and his native Amami Ōshima weave together into a story that is unique and fascinating.

Staff welcome guests with sprinkled water to banish defilement and with incense to purify the space. The restaurant serves tempura kaiseki featuring bounty of land and sea. Wanmono and sashimi are prepared with orthodox Japanese cuisine in mind; tempura is thinly battered and served one piece at a time. Handmade sweets and tea draw the meal to a close. Like leaves that change throughout the year, the choice of serving vessels and ingredients expresses the seasons.