Rinn Yasaka Kodaiji

The chef selects ingredients in a way that treasures interaction with food producers. Against a backdrop of kombu boxes, decorating his walls like hanging scrolls, he prepares his dishes in a spirit of gratitude. His principle is that true flavours are subtle. In wanmono, he aims for a light flavour that brings out the umami of the makombu. But cooking is not the only thing that bewitches diners at Gion Nishikawa. The sukiya design of the interior makes the mood of old Gion palpable, while the chef’s affable personality keeps the room ringing with conversation and laughter.

Kikunoi is spreading the word worldwide about the allure of Japanese cuisine. Yoshihiro Murata sets his sights on innovation while evangelising Kyoto’s graceful ryotei culture. Occasionally Western ingredients get added to the mix, infusing a contemporary sensibility. Change accumulates in layers here, as a result of shifting personnel: Chef Murata invites trainees from overseas to pass on to them the true nature of Japanese cuisine and Japanese traditions of service. Fixing his gaze on the future of Japanese cooking, Murata cultivates the next generation of chefs.

This ryotei began life as a restaurant and ryokan in Kyotango. With the rustic beauty of the Tango countryside and the refinement of Kyoto as its themes, Kodaiji Wakuden is opening a new era in ryotei culture. Crab, a speciality of the restaurant’s birthplace, is cooked in a sunken hearth, a hole strikingly carved in the middle of tatami seating. Also remarkable is the tradition of this establishment, the flagship of the Wakuden group of restaurants, of appointing carefully selected young chefs to run it, to invite the fresh breeze of new ideas, guided by a philosophy of constant innovation.

The ambience is still, like a mountain retreat in the heart of the city. The flicker of votive lanterns casts a tenor of rustic simplicity. While he worked to polish his cooking skills, Hitoshi Ishihara also encountered Zen teachings. Inspired by the wabicha spirit of the tea ceremony, Ishihara strives to host each dinner as a single gathering, with guests and host in close communication. Generous portions reinforce the mood of celebration. ‘Mizai’ is a Zen word meaning ‘not yet here’; for Ishihara, tireless self-improvement is a never-ending journey.

During the short walk from the front gate to the main buildings, guests can appreciate the history of the buildings while feeling the presence of nature. Classic aesthetics pervade the entire site, from the sukiya design of the buildings to the space reflecting seasonal ceremonies and views of the garden. The chef wants every aspect of Sanso Kyoyamato to be beautiful, so he takes special care with the refinement of his food arrangements and their elegant flavours. The painstaking service of the proprietress and hostess is an agreeable presence. Diners will sense a complete work of Japanese art

The ryotei sits on a sprawling 6,600 sqm property. The aesthetic of old Japan pulses through the veins of this establishment, from the impressive gate and garden sculpted by a gardener of rare talent to the house crafted by a master of sukiya-style construction. The interior includes private rooms, some complete with counters-style setups reflecting modern preferences. Ingredients are carefully selected from producers throughout Japan. The restaurant tries to be subtly ahead of the times by, for example, applying Western flame techniques to meat dishes and serving them as accompaniments to sak

Situated on the south side of Kennin-ji Temple, the restaurant looks out on Yasaka Pagoda. Pass through the elegant gate, have a seat in the waiting area, and relax in the courtyard cooled with sprinkled water. The proprietor welcomes guests with the four-fold etiquette of the wabi-cha school of tea ceremony: harmony, respect, purity and tranquillity. In cuisine, he prizes the five unseen senses, with care paid to light, sound, temperature, fragrance and taste. Even the water is steeped in history, tradition and the four seasons. Unseen yet deep and strong are the roots of Kyoto culture here.