The Lighthorseman

This bright, lively restaurant is still one of the hottest tickets in town, and it's easy to see why. Located just up the road from Micklegate Bar – a 12th-century gateway to the city – its name comes from the Japanese word meaning ‘small amount’, referencing the menu's sharing-plates format. Six or seven dishes is about right between two, with each one incorporating bold, precisely balanced flavours with real skill. Indian cuisine has a palpable influence on the cooking, but so does the rest of the world – with dishes like masala monkfish and the superb hogget 'shawarma'.

Just outside York's bustling city centre, you'll find this cosy neighbourhood restaurant where the walls are covered with murals of ingredients and happy diners. It's apt décor for a place with a passion for local produce and a warm, inviting atmosphere thanks to the long-serving team. The ambitious cooking is underpinned by the natural flavours of the high quality ingredients, and the strong classical technique of the experienced chef is evident – if a soufflé is available for dessert, make sure you order it.

Located in York’s buzzing centre, this relaxed restaurant brings a sunny taste of Greece to the historic city. It’s a simple, cheerful place with an informal bistro vibe and friendly service. The cooking presents great value for money, especially at lunchtime, and offers well-executed versions of classic dishes: start with pita and dips, then share the likes of ‘keftedakia’ meatballs or moussaka, before ending on a sugary note with the ‘Portakalopia’, a Cretan cake with orange syrup. Greek wines and spirits add to the authenticity.

On the edge of York’s buzzing centre, you’ll find this brick-built former coaching house. Inside, there's a Mediterranean feel to the white-and-blue décor, while an enclosed terrace is ideal for the summer. The cooking gets off to a great start with stand-out bread from their bakery, Little Arras, before dishes that are guided by the seasons and feature inventive touches and combinations. Cheese lovers should save room for the excellent British selection presented on a handmade oak trolley, while wine enthusiasts will be delighted by a well-curated list – including a strong English showing.

The name is a clue as to this intimate restaurant’s focus, as well as to its sustainable ethos. Tucked down a narrow cobbled-street in York's pretty city centre, not far from the famous Shambles, its menu focuses on fish from small boats, meats reared putting husbandry first and game from local shoots. All parts of the ingredients are used too, so that the constantly evolving blackboard menu produces little waste. The self-taught chef's cooking has an ambitious edge, with dishes proving to be fresh and vibrant. The friendly team add to the appeal.

The Grand Hotel – built in 1906 as the HQ of the North-Eastern Railway Company – is a building that certainly lives up to its name. Among its historic interiors lies Legacy, a formal restaurant with an elegant feel thanks to its parquet flooring and marble-topped tables. The kitchen is strong on technique and fuses Yorkshire ingredients with Japanese influences, from the use of ponzu to a chawanmushi-like dish of shiitake custard. The knowledgeable service team keep things running smoothly.

As locations go, this buzzy all-day brasserie is in a real gem – even in a city with as many pretty spots as York. Part of the same group as The Star Inn at Harome, this city centre spin-off occupies an old brick-built engine house next to the Museum Gardens, with large windows and a lovely terrace overlooking the river. The menu of carefully cooked dishes has a pubby base and blends modern execution with a pleasing gutsiness – underscoring it all is the top Yorkshire produce, with seasonal influences leading the way.