Jianguo Hotel HUANQIU

Upon arrival at this upmarket restaurant, diners step into a hallway lined with steeply priced dried fish maws. With years of experience in Hong Kong and Shanghai, Chef Cheung reimagines Chaozhou classics with sophistication and finesse. Braised fish maw with 30-year-aged dried radish is one of his proud creations – the lingering aromas of the radish lend the dish extra depth of flavour. Both the wine list and tea menu are packed with excellent choices.

The speciality here is Shandong cooking, especially Confucius cuisine, sea cucumber and live seafood shipped daily from Jiaodong peninsula. The chef is from Yantai and knows the food from his home province inside out. Try his roast 45-day-old duck served with caviar, prawn crackers and Shandong pancakes, which embodies features of both Beijing and Shandong cuisine. The lengthy tea menu and bespoke tea service make for a very special experience.

This brand under the Xin Rong Ji group specialises in Sichuan fare, in particular cuisine from Yibin, the chef's home city. Most of his ingredients are from Sichuan and seasonal. With its deep fiery heat, the plateau loach hot pot with green Sichuan peppercorns on the vine is a hit. The quick-fried pork liver and kidney is another must-try. The drinks list focuses on wine and sparkling tea from Sichuan. Ask the sommelier about wine pairings.

With over 40 years of experience, this owner-chef from Hong Kong samples what his team makes daily to keep improving the quality. He is justly proud of his crispy deep-fried squab – 30-day-old birds are basted three times to crisp the skin while keeping the meat juicy and silky. Other standouts include double-boiled soups, dim sum, as well as sago and pomelo in mango purée that strikes a perfect balance between sweet and tangy.

The dark green façade and warm grey room impart sophisticated taste. The jasmine centrepiece on each table exudes a pleasant scent and befits the restaurant’s name. On the menu, Beijingese melds with Shandong in refined masterpieces that look and taste divine. The signature classic Peking duck can be ordered in individual portions – in addition to pancake, scallion and cucumber, chargrilled duck breast with crispy skin is luxed up with caviar.

The cosy, understated space is done out in neutral greys with pops of teal green. The Shanghainese head chef and predominantly Shanghainese kitchen team reinterpret the classics, adding modern twists. Check out the seasonal offerings made with Jiangzhe ingredients that are hard to come by in Beijing. Another highlight is their Shanghainese dim sum, such as xiao long bao and qingtuan (sweet sticky rice dumplings with Chinese mugwort).

A skylight in the pitched roof bathes the main room in natural light; the private rooms and balcony also feel cosy. An inquisitive soul by nature, veteran chef Dai spent time in Japan studying plant-based ingredients. His menu follows the seasons and may include his signature "porcini, green pepper, sea salt" with Yunnan mushrooms chargrilled to impart smoky aromas. The famous tofu is steeped in broth and intoxicating flavours.