Atour Hotel Nanjing Hongshan Zoo Metro Station

Highly experienced when it comes to Huaiyang cuisine, Chef Hou is best known for his refined, contemporary take on traditional favourites, with an emphasis on exquisite knifework and locally sourced produce in season. The braised eight-treasure pigeon with abalone – his spin on the classic duck recipe – is a cornucopia of gourmet ingredients with a rich, luscious glaze. Private rooms come with their own balconies that afford superb views.

For almost 40 years, this small halal shop has won the hearts of locals with its well-made beef dishes. Potstickers are the must-try, seducing with crisp charred bottom, plump juicy beef filling and tempting scallion aromas. Beef wontons are little bombs bursting with meaty umami in a translucent velvety skin, served in a peppery beef broth. Other braised beef cuts and offal are also flavoursome, tender, and just the ticket with all kinds of noodles.

The owner couple opened this shop in 2012 to serve rice paddy eel noodles, a speciality from their home county of Baoying, Yangzhou. The fried version is the most popular choice: boasting velvety eel, bouncy noodles and smoky wok hei. It is served with a bowl of eel bone soup. For the soup varieties, choose between milky eel soup and clear broth topped with sautéed eel in a thick glaze. Add pork balls, pork aspic or cracklings for something extra.

The views of Xuanwu Lake and Mt Zijin are beautiful to behold, but the light-filled open kitchen, where the experienced chef prepares updated Huaiyang and Nanjing classics as well as seasonal dishes, also catches the eye. The crystal pork aspic boasts meaty flavour and a bouncy texture, with vinegar pearls providing mini explosions of tartness. The thinly shredded tofu in umami-laden Wensi tofu soup with crabmeat is testament to impressive knife skills.

Chef Liang's career spans three decades and includes stints at famous establishments in Macau. Here, he gives Cantonese classics a makeover with condiments from his birthplace of Shunde, for instance salted kohlrabi in sautéed baby lobster with radish cake, and Chinese olive kernels in sweet and sour pork. The Cantonese barbecue is a highlight; the crispy-skin chicken with silky, juicy flesh also tends to sell out. Pre-order to avoid missing out.

Trained in Huaiyang cuisine, the owner applies the same level of care to preparing his noodles. Suzhou-style noodles work magic with Nanjing-style marinated meats in his signature beef brisket and tendon noodle soup – incredibly tender meat in an umami-laden broth made fresh daily from beef bone. Alternatively, you can ask for the "dry" version tossed in sauces. The sweet and sour pork ribs are another must-try, delivering depth and sweetness.

This unassuming-looking joint in a residential building has been in operation for over 20 years and locals are hooked on the home-style Jiangzhe dishes. With about 40 items on the menu, it's all killer, no filler. Top picks include "ruan dou" rice paddy eel served in a sizzling pot – incredible wok hei marries scallion aromas, deep umami and peppery warmth. The brine-poached pork intestine features bouncy meat on a bed of shredded tofu skin.