CUVEE J2 HOTEL OSAKA by Onko Chishin

Hanging in the kitchen is a framed calligraphy motto bearing the phrase ‘Hakuraku no ikko’ -a reference to distinguishing true quality. It reflects the chef’s wish to keep improving so as to earn the respect of his diners. For the chefs, the plain wood counter is the stage on which they perform as one cohesive unit. Food and dishware captivate with seasonal combinations. The hassun is especially attention-grabbing: beauty sculpted from the bounty of land and sea, where both rich and light coexist. Guests here are welcomed with carefully prepared dishes.

Out of childhood experiences and the landscapes of rural valleys, the chef creates cuisine that reverberates in all five senses. The spectacle of colourful arrangements, the sound and texture of each bite, the aroma, and of course the taste all harmonise and sizzle as one course follows another. The couple who run the kitchen deliver an illustrated message to the table as a sign of the season.

Dreaming up cuisine that matches the food to the guest is the mission of this Naniwa kappo. The menu’s called ‘Yuno’s omakase’ proclaiming a free-and-easy approach that strays from the norms of Japanese cuisine. Sashimi assortments are paired with onion dipping sauce or condiments; grilled items are dressed with vegetable sauces. Fishbone broth used in hot-pot fare attests to the restaurant’s spirit of wasting nothing. Come to enjoy the chef’s playful spirit and flavours of Osaka expressed through quality ingredients.

Yusuke Takada unravels the mysteries of the classics while pursuing the modern. Takada is the author of a new French cuisine, one imbued with the essence of Japan. Takada’s aim in using traditional ingredients such as kudzu vine, tofu skin, miso and wasabi is to proclaim the goodness of foodstuffs grown and raised in Japan. Cultural elements from Osaka and his native Amami Ōshima weave together into a story that is unique and fascinating.

Staff welcome guests with sprinkled water to banish defilement and with incense to purify the space. The restaurant serves tempura kaiseki featuring bounty of land and sea. Wanmono and sashimi are prepared with orthodox Japanese cuisine in mind; tempura is thinly battered and served one piece at a time. Handmade sweets and tea draw the meal to a close. Like leaves that change throughout the year, the choice of serving vessels and ingredients expresses the seasons.

The name is a mashup of the name of the couple who founded the restaurant and the phrase ‘bumbu-ryodo’, ‘accomplished in both literary and military arts’. The phrase expresses the spirit of the chef, who devotes himself to both cooking and service. The third-generation chef commands the kitchen, guarding the flavours inherited from the first. Unmoved by an age that craves all things new, the chef passes on the handiwork and cuisine of the good old days. The simmered vegetable assortment is one example. With skilful knife work and carefully calibrated addition of dashi, the chef brings guests t

A willow tree bending to describe an arc is the symbol of the restaurant and the meaning of its name. In this modern sukiya-type interior, the arc bends toward a wickerwork ceiling. Koryu’s location on the river’s edge reminds you that Osaka is known as the ‘City of Water’. The aim of the house is to be true to its Naniwa (Osaka) roots. The sumptuously arranged “Naniwa” sashimi platter is a remarkable sight. Traditional vegetables also befit the Osaka cuisine. Like the willow tree, Koryu applies a supple creative spirit to a solid foundation.