Sakura Hotel Oami

‘A backstreet Italian eatery’ is how this trattoria bills itself. The chef professes his love of Tuscany through his cooking, which includes crostini of chicken-liver paste; beef tripe simmered in the Florentine style; Pici, akin to a thick spaghetti, in tomato ragú is a Sienese primo piatto. The meat elegantly grilled over charcoal flame is best enjoyed with a bottle of red wine.

The theme is fusions of Japanese and Chinese influences. Soy sauce, which determines the flavour, is infused with kelp, dried bonito flakes and dried shiitake mushrooms. Mouth-watering chicken, seasoned with this soy sauce and black vinegar, is served with seasonal vegetables for a creative twist. The leftover sauce can be used to accent the flavours of gyoza and shumai. In summer, the signature dish is unagi stir-fried with chilli peppers. Another great point is how you can tell the chef what you like, and he will improvise a dish for you.

‘O2’ (‘oh-two’) is a play on Chef Otsu’s name. Like his bow tie and denim apron, the pun is an Otsu trademark. Presented as Chinese cuisine, the fare at O2 really defies easy categories, making use of both Western and Japanese ingredients. The chef’s code is to use Chinese elements in both technique and seasoning. The playful interior also expresses Otsu’s unique vision.

The counter forms a U around the grill. Kitchen staff call out to each other as they devote themselves to their work. The chef builds his skewers with generous chunks of brand-name chicken and cooks them over high flame at close range. Salt is favoured over sauce, the better to draw out the flavour of the meat. Delightful flavour variations include whole chicken heart with ginger and chicken drumettes with a paste of yuzu zest and chilli peppers. The chef works hard to train the next generation, enriching and growing the world of yakitori.

A chef who is a disciple of gastronomy opened this bistro. Keen on making French cuisine accessible to a general audience, Watanabe Ryouri-mise fosters a casual atmosphere, greeting guests with à la carte offerings. French techniques are on display in the charcuterie of pâtés and hams, and in the beef cheek stewed in red wine. Seafood offerings make full use of Japan’s advantages as a country surrounded by oceans. The chef draws on his experiences and lessons from working at Toyosu Market.

Wood-fired French cuisine defines the theme here, a marriage of classical French technique and wood flame. Meat and fish are enveloped in fire, while vegetables are gently smoked. Even the red wine sauce for meat dishes reflects this devotion to wood fire: the aromatic vegetables used in the stock are first charred over flame. The name ‘jiü’ refers to the ‘blessed rain’ that nourishes the fields, and it is with the hope that this restaurant may gently nourish the hearts of its guests.

Drawing inspiration from Japan’s four seasons, the chef fuses ingredients with the cuisines of various regions of Spain. His choice to take the path of Spanish cuisine was set when he tried paella as a student. Obsessed with reproducing this epiphany for his guests, the chef offers Spanish and Japanese rice cuisine in tandem. Clams on rice is a Basque recipe, arranged in Fukagawa-meshi style. A deep dive into the hometown cuisines of Spain and Japan, in the heart of Kiyosumi Shirakawa.