Au repos du roi

Few chefs show such a strong culinary personality as Alexandre Gauthier in La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil. The story unfolds in a space with two tiered metal rooftops (designed by architect Patrick Bouchain) and views onto the verdant surroundings and the kitchens. This is the laboratory in which the chef cooks up "contemporary cuisine with French roots, liberated from its certainties and preconceptions". Like an alchemist, he teases out flavours in on-point dishes, each a vignette of creativity in which the ingredients sing the praises of the seasons. Artistic and experimental cuisine, to be sav

Chef Christophe Dufossé has been thriving in his homeland, as his cooking illustrates. This pretty château set in leafy grounds sports a contemporary conservatory extension. Here, he champions organic, self-sufficient and sustainable surf and turf cooking centred on vegetables and produce from the North. Every dish is delicately yet generously crafted – and flanked by robust classic sauces. The dishes speak for themselves – monkfish gratin with a sabayon sauce and its ragout of clams, razor clams and cockles. Other highlights are the bread and sweets, particularly the incredibly lavish dessert

A ‘bacôve’ is a large flat-bottomed boat used by the vegetable growers of the marshes of St Omer to transport their crops. It is emblematic of Camille Delcroix’ inspiration (Top Chef 2018 winner) and of his soothing, nature-inspired restaurant. He crafts razor-sharp menus, inspired by first-rate locally sourced produce in a surf ‘n turf vein. The chef’s preoccupation with presentation shines through, both in the choice of tableware as in the colours and graphics of each plate. Finally, Carla and her smiling team bend over backwards to make you feel at home.

Le Pavillon of the Westminster, a 1930’s luxury hotel and a flagship of the Côte d’Opale, boasts a velvety cocooned vibe and a black and ochre colour scheme. The dining room, hung with huge animal-themed tapestries, provides the backdrop to William Elliott’s creative seafood-centric score. Virtuoso talent and delicacy depict the craftsmanship lavished on noble ingredients like caviar, lobster, langoustine… Examples include Audresselles lobster in cherries and almonds underscored by an aceita di terga vinegar dressing. The terrace commands a view of the iconic La Canche lighthouse. Simpler fare

Poised between Steenvoorde and Saint-Omer in the heart of Flanders, Cassel is a darling of a brick-built village. A small village for a tiny restaurant. Housed in a beautiful 18C abode with space for just 20 diners, it is run by owners who are truly passionate about fine cuisine. Chef Eugène Hobraiche meticulously crafts contemporary cuisine that goes hand in hand with seasonal produce, using local fruit and vegetables, as well as fish from Dunkirk's market: salmon confit with Sichuan pepper, textures of cabbage and shiitake dashi; roasted pollack, mustard and multi-coloured carrot gnocchi. To

A stone's throw from Étaples marina, Pierre Chavatte's restaurant sports a contemporary decor with wood details, and the kitchen as a backdrop. Generous and precise, particularly when it comes to sauces, the cuisine is a hit. The prawns with spinach, black garlic and cashews are a pure delight; the oh-so-tender red mullet is elevated by a bouillabaisse-style broth. For dessert, the pear in spiced wine sees an interplay of textures. A sincere, warm and indulgent spot.

This establishment is run by a professional young couple who go to great lengths to keep their guests happy. The fruit of their labours: modern and well-executed cuisine that puts ingredients from the local terroir in the spotlight, as in their tender and tasty haddock sausage accompanied by Picardy mushrooms, or their stuffed farm-reared guinea fowl, apple and onion, chicory jus.