First Cabin Ichigaya

Experimentation with new flavours blows winds of innovation into Japanese cuisine. The chef’s purview extends to Western ingredients such as truffle and caviar. Reverence for dashi, however, keeps his dishes within the bounds of Japanese cuisine. The chef treads a unique path, weaving creativity and Western flamboyance into Japanese fare. The counter seats are always fully booked but, with luck, a cancellation might make the private dining room available.

The totality of this ryotei’s art—the cuisine, the ceremonial furnishings, the service—makes a deep impression. The original owner-chef learned the basics of cooking under the guidance of legendary epicure Kitaoji Rosanjin. The current chef, guardian of the traditions of the Fukuda family, displays his talents with creations that delight guests, squarely focused on respect for ingredients. He puts into practice Rosanjin’s famous dictum: ‘Eight or nine times out of ten, the quality of the ingredients selected determines the quality of a dish.’

The name ‘L’ÉTERRE’ is a mashup of two French words: ‘l’éterne’ meaning ‘eternity’, and ‘la terre’ meaning ‘the earth’. It encapsulates the restaurant’s determination never to stop gathering the bounty of the earth and crafting delicious cuisine from it. Japan is a country surrounded by sea, and L’ÉTERRE makes full use of this, focusing on seafood dishes. Vegetables and meat highlight the abundance of their terroirs, grilled sometimes over charcoal or firewood, sometimes over straw. Time-honoured cooking methods are eternal as well.

This gustatory experience is a journey through Peru. The menu features the culinary traditions of the Andes and the ecosystem of the Amazon basin. Each menu item lists the producing region and, uniquely, its elevation. Taking these altitudes as a guide, the meal traces a route through sea, mountain and river, weaving a tale of diverse natural environments. Dried foods from Peru combine with Japanese ingredients to bring forth a cuisine that is richly imaginative.

Having been born and raised overseas, the chef chose the path of the sushi artisan out of a desire to work in a field that involves Japan’s traditions and culture. Among the appetisers, standard items include simmered monkfish liver and steamed abalone. Sushi toppings start with the subtler flavours and proceed to bolder ones, paired with white-vinegar or red-vinegar sushi rice according to topping. Pioneering directions in modern sushi include squid glazed with salt water mixed with white birch sap and conger eel paired with an herbal liquor reduction.

Down a narrow blind alley in a corner of Arakicho known for its dining spots, a traditional lantern casts a soft glow. Inside, the intimate space offers counter seating only, where the chef demonstrates the refined techniques of kappo. The menu favours individuality over formality. With the first toast in mind, fried dishes appear early in the meal. Steamed sushi seasoned with red vinegar is paired with seasonal seafood, and house-made soba is another highlight. The generosity of each portion adds to the satisfaction.

Makoto Onozawa finds inventive ways to break the mould while respecting tradition. Soup dishes and sashimi uphold the basics, reassuring the diner. Broiled unagi seasoned in soy-based sweet sauce is served together with broiled unseasoned unagi for a special treat. Rolled sushi of tuna and pickled daikon radish are served in the intervals, bringing satisfaction. The meal concludes on two comfort-food notes: soba and curry. Breaking tradition, after all, is about seeing the job to completion.