ESLEAD HOTEL Namba Ebisu West

The stately tea-house interior and Japanese-style painting of the spray from a waterfall enfold guests in an atmosphere of tranquillity. Proclaiming a no-nonsense approach to sushi, the two chefs restrict seasoning and other preparations to the bare minimum. They add no sugar to the sushi rice, the better to draw out the natural sweetness of fish and rice. Tuna is marinated in soy sauce only briefly; conger eel dressed in sauce that is only slightly sweet. As they form sushi by hand, both chefs focus on the basics of rice, wasabi, vinegar and fish.

‘Taian’ means ‘big hut’, and indeed this little place has a huge spirit. Recalling the apparent paradox of the tea ceremony, in which a small, spare space is made to feel boundless, the cosy and clean décor is exceptional in its modesty. The cuisine crystallises the skill and passion of Hitoshi Takahata, while the contrast between outward appearance and inner content is a reflection of his philosophy. Cuisine with depths of flavour satisfies the soul.

The proprietor of this refined, modern sukiya-style structure displays a unique approach while honouring tradition. The wanmono broth draws in the sweetness of kombu and the sharpness of shaved bonito. Sashimi showcases the chef’s disciplined knife technique. Generous amounts of seasonal ingredients are grilled over bincho charcoal. Even the handmade soba imparts a sense of season. ‘Omogashi’, the main sweet served in the tea ceremony, and usucha draw the meal to a close. Service is in the spirit of the tea ceremony.

Yugen means ‘mysterious profundity’, grace whose depths can never be plumbed. It connotes the depths of Japanese cuisine, a product of constant refinement through the ages. Keisuke Mifune puts on display the skills and instincts he honed at a ryotei. He pays attention to combinations of ingredients and dishware, expressing the changing of the seasons through his menu. A Fukuoka native, the chef furnishes the bounty of Kyushu in the form of seafood from the Genkai Sea and the Goto Islands.

The owner-chef teases out subtle flavours with a versatile sensibility and technique honed in Kyoto. He takes particular care when blending his dashi. Prepared with a light flavour, it draws out the character of each ingredient. Flavours of other ingredients transfer to the dashi in wanmono, steamed items and takiawase, lending depth to their taste. Preparations are simple, yet unseen tweaks make each item unique. Admire antique serving-ware and vessels fashioned by modern artists as you savour the tastes of the season.

Hanging in the kitchen is a framed calligraphy motto bearing the phrase ‘Hakuraku no ikko’ -a reference to distinguishing true quality. It reflects the chef’s wish to keep improving so as to earn the respect of his diners. For the chefs, the plain wood counter is the stage on which they perform as one cohesive unit. Food and dishware captivate with seasonal combinations. The hassun is especially attention-grabbing: beauty sculpted from the bounty of land and sea, where both rich and light coexist. Guests here are welcomed with carefully prepared dishes.

The nameplate features calligraphy by Teiichi Yuki, a visionary who helped elevate the status of Japanese cuisine. The second-generation chef upholds the spirit that Yuki, founder of the Kitcho group, inherited from his mentor. The menu reflects the beauty of the seasons and conveys the culture of Japan. Gorgeous hassun appetiser platters incorporate elements of seasonal celebrations, placing traditional culinary craftmanship on full display. Inside the house, which is built in the tea ceremony room style, the decor is simple and rustic. The aesthetics of Japanese cuisine live and breathe in u