Atour Hotel Hangzhou Xiaoshan Kaiyuan Plaza

(The restaurant is temporarily closed.) This tiny shop specialising in Xiaoshan cooking has no paper menu – you pick from the fish tank and various dishes on display. Steaming is a key characteristic of Xiaoshan cuisine and, here, river fish, meat and vegetables are steamed with ham and cured pork, yellow wine, or chicken fat and soy sauce to bring out their natural flavours. Three-year-old duck is steamed with ham for intense umami. The pork stuffed omelette roll is another must-try.

This no-frills shop is relatively inconspicuous, so, you may well walk right past it without noticing. But those in the know flock here for authentic Xiaoshan cuisine made with the freshest seasonal produce. There is no menu – pick your own food from the counter or ask the owner for recommendations. The must-try steamed miiuy croaker is silky in texture and loaded with umami. Poached free-range chicken and steamed veggies also hit the spot every time.

Full-length windows allow diners to bask in the lush greenery of Xiang Lake. The kitchen is under a white dome with jars of fermented food on a round island, like a place of worship. The set menu showcases modern French cuisine made with local Chinese ingredients, incorporating authentic elements of Hangzhou. Even the dinner rolls are steamed like Chinese buns before being baked.

A sign that says "stinky" or "rotten" might not usually sound appetising, but Yue Ji prides itself on the six features of Shaoxing cooking: soy sauce, distillers' grains, rottenness, stench, wine and pickles! Try dishes marinated with distillers' grains sauce, such as duck gizzard or pork tongue and belly. No meal here is complete without the notorious deep-fried stinky tofu and steamed minced pork patty with rotten millefeuille tofu skin. Pre-ordering recommended.

Down an alley near the Drum Tower, a yellow flag heralds the "wonton king", priming diners for the dumpling feast to come. Having retired in 2016, the owner learnt to make wonton from scratch, before opening this shop. The filling is made in-house with freshly slaughtered (not frozen) pork; ultra fresh vegetables and a sprinkle of black sesame seeds impart extra aromas; dried shrimps add umami depth to the broth. The potstickers are tasty, too.

The room sports cultural motifs from the Chaoshan region, including a miniature replica of Guangji Bridge, an icon of Chaozhou. Walk-in diners will be seated in the main dining room and served an à la carte menu. Private rooms must be booked in advance, with a tailored menu. The signature marinated “gelato” raw mud crab boasts creamy roe that melts in the mouth. Also try the double-boiled silkie chicken soup with deer tendon and ginseng.

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