CANTON HOTEL BEIJING

Named after the provincial flower of Hunan, this brand is part of the Xin Rong Ji Group. It serves Hunanese classics such as steamed fish head with chopped chilli that packs a punch. Pork tripe soup with pickled radish cooked in a casserole over charcoal imparts tangy, briny depth. Softshell turtle is another speciality, either steamed with yellow chilli or red braised. The smaller "horse-hoof" variety is perfect for a party of two.

This is the first Beijing branch of the Taizhou brand famous for super-fresh, top-notch seafood shipped from the East China Sea daily. Wild-caught yellow croaker is the mainstay of a menu that keeps pace with availability, however, brown croaker is also a firm favourite for many, and whether it is crafted into dumplings that burst with juices or minced and braised into springy ‘lion head’ meatballs, it always delivers succulent flavours and textures.

This upmarket restaurant in Chaozhou is another gem from the F&B chain. Chef Gu, who hails from the city, has been cooking professionally for over 30 years. His menu is based on tradition but imbued with creativity. The boneless pigeon stuffed with bird's nest in matsutake broth delivers striking layers of textures. Professional wine and tea sommeliers take care of the libations. Chinese reds and whites aside, try the phoenix tea brewed with spring water.

As the name suggests, the kitchen is helmed by chefs hailing from the Sichuanese city of Yibin, from whence most of the ingredients are shipped, before they are cooked in authentic Yibin style. The menu is extensive and the portions generous. Try Lizhuang boiled pork, and Yibin noodles with bean sprouts dressed in a nutty, spicy sauce. Reservations are not accepted, so expect to queue at mealtimes, often for over an hour.

Designed by German architect Ole Scheeren, this dining room seamlessly blends pared-down modernism with hutong traditions. Imagine circular booths that create an array of semi-private spaces. The experienced head chef from Hong Kong showcases his solid, savvy skills in signature dishes like roast pigeon. The menu includes many items that are available in individual portion sizes, so diners can sample the variety of his repertory. The delicately-crafted dim sum is recommended at lunchtime.

This restaurant, annexed to an art gallery, sports a dining room complete with historical garden views through its floor-to-ceiling windows. Liaoning fisherman’s-style dishes are re-created here, with produce from Changbai Mountains and fish from Bohai Sea and Liao River. Signatures include green willow clams, and stir-fried sea snail with green onion—both flavoursome and full of umami.

What this basement restaurant space lacks in views it more than makes up for with eclectic art and a chic bar. Chef William Mahi, who hails from the Basque Country, puts a new Basque spin on French classics. Novel creations such as 52-degree egg with potato foam and white truffle aside, his light-tasting menu appeals with a vast array of seafood, including langoustine, spider crab and squid. The authentic Basque cheesecake is another highlight.