Atour Light Hotel Westlake Fengqi Road Hangzhou

A landmark of Sichuan cooking from Chengdu, this outpost opened in a beautifully restored, 1930s, Shikumen-style residence. In line with the brand’s ethos, the set menus highlight natural flavours courtesy of refined, well-crafted Sichuan dishes that roll out subtle Hangzhou influences. Depending on the season, premium local produce, like seafood from Jiangzhe, re-creates some of the 24 taste profiles that comprise classical Sichuan cuisine.

After a recent move, the shop is now tucked away down an alley but is easily found by following the heady aromas of the house specialty: slow-braised lamb in a giant wok with broth and Shaoxing wine until the meat falls off the bone. Thin noodles that cling well to broth and 12-month-old lambs are shipped daily from Tongxiang, Zhejiang. The lamb and offal noodle soup offers free noodle refills or order a side of lamb’s legs and trotters.

This household name, famous for home-style Hangzhou cooking, has been around for over 20 years. The dining area occupies two floors, but seating is limited, so expect to queue or share a table at peak hours. The signature cold appetiser of pork kidneys dressed in a sweet tangy sauce is meticulously crafted. Seafood is also their strong suit – try razor clams from the East China Sea sautéed in chilli sauce or scallion oil.

After opening in 2017, Wu Zi shot to fame, becoming the best-known noodle shop in the area. Classic Hangzhou-style noodles are either served in soup or tossed in sauces with various toppings – prepared to the exacting standards of the owner, a chef by profession. The pork kidney and liver are nicely browned while retaining their succulence and a lovely chewiness. Another must-try classic topping: shrimps and eel sautéed with onion, mushrooms and dried tofu.

Embedded in Hangzhou’s collective culinary memory, the predecessor of this simple, friendly joint dates back to the 1990s. The chalkboard menu covers many traditional home-style favourites, with river fish being the speciality. Braised soft-shelled turtle with pickled cabbage boasts gelatinous texture, deep flavours and mild heat. Quick-poached pork kidneys impress with spot-on doneness and snappy texture. Yellow croaker on rice cake is another must-try.

This acclaimed eatery prides itself on its home-style dishes. Expect queues at mealtimes! The juicy chicken dressed in scallion oil exudes heady aromas. Steamed vegetarian chicken and bamboo shoots with dried pork marinated in soybean paste evoke childhood memories for many a Hangzhou local. Freshwater fish is another strong suit – check out the bream, eels and crabs in the fish tank at the entrance and ask the servers the best way to have them cooked.

Born into a family of chefs, the young owner started as an apprentice and worked his way up. Exacting about his noodles, he has them tailor-made to the required texture. All the Hangzhou-style noodle dishes are made to order, featuring various toppings and sauces. His original recipe, noodles tossed in scrambled egg with a tangy sweet tomato sauce, stands out from typical pork sauces. The shrimp, eel and tomato sauce version is equally good.