Appart h tel Saint-denis Appartement 21

A father-and-son team is behind this brasserie-style restaurant with a smart, polished interior and a hint of Scandinavian flair. The father is a seasoned professional who has been cooking since he was 15 (his CV includes the Grand Hôtel du Lion d'Or in Romorantin and the Domaine des Dryades); his son provides enthusiastic service front of house. Farm produce and fish from Brittany are elevated by the sure touch of the chef: pan-fried snails and octopus, root vegetables and black garlic jus; sesame and dried lime biscuit, crumble with toasted sesame oil.

In the heart of the old town, this contemporary restaurant is run with appealing energy by a young chef who gives free rein to his inspiration, resulting in a delicious and eclectic culinary experience for diners. Indeed, influences from far and wide come together on a menu that is regularly renewed according to the seasons and the market; there are plenty of dishes for sharing. The restaurant also boasts a great selection of cocktails and a short wine list including a good choice of wines by the glass.

Chef Adam Blondeau is a trained pastry chef originally from Châteauroux. After time abroad and having garnered valuable experience in some of the world's top kitchens, he is now back on home turf. He may be young, but he already has several strings to his bow: skilled at fermenting (eg pickles), using herbs grown in his own garden, and playfully referencing the terroir. He doesn't cut corners when it comes to the quality of the ingredients in his pared-down dishes, a case in point being his Chambord venison. His cooking is ingredient-led, right down to single-ingredient dishes.