La Hacienda Hotel, at Xcaret

If you’re not staying at the Hotel Xcaret, be sure to devote extra time to arrive at this restaurant, as it involves some navigation. However, once you’ve found it, you’re in for a treat. The cuisine has a definite French bent, which is perhaps no surprise given Chef Carlos Gaytán’s training, but there is nonetheless a confident use of distinctly Mexican flavors and ingredients. This is cooking with a clear sense of identity and strong technique, and noteworthy for bold, creative flavor combinations. The mushroom beignet decorated with a frilly crisp of cauliflower in a creamy truffle and mint