Hazai Provence

Head away from the lakeside to seek out this honest all-day bistro with a smart modern interior and a popular terrace. Dishes have a Hungarian heart and perfectly reflect the seasons, with the likes of chilled fruit soups in summer and hearty, warming dishes in winter. Meat-lovers should order the mangalitsa Wellington if they see it on the menu, while fish fanatics should come on Fridays for the special seafood menu. They offer wines from around the world, but don't pass up the opportunity to try some of the superb local Lake Balaton options.

A short walk from the southern shores of Lake Balaton, Kistücsök is part of a small hotel which comes complete with its own swimming pool. Well-regarded locally, the restaurant is known for its consistently good interpretations of classic Hungarian dishes, which have been modernised both in their composition and their look. Flavours are fresh, with the occasional global influence, and prices are reasonable. The ‘Taste of the Region’ menu with wine pairings is always a great choice, and the floating island dessert has become something of a speciality.

This inviting roadside pub sits in an elevated spot and is fronted by a pleasant terrace. Inside it’s warm and welcoming with a rustic feel – thanks to a log burner crackling away on colder nights. Its name translates as ‘I cooked for you’. The concise menu lists all things Hungarian and the friendly team are happy to talk you through it and offer suggestions. The gutsy home-cooking has plenty of flavour and can be paired with a selection of local wines.

An exclusive lakeside resort plays host to this elegant restaurant (if you’re not staying the night, then pre-booking is essential in high season). Grab a cocktail in the stylish bar before enjoying a carefully curated selection of contemporary Hungarian dishes which fuse tradition with inventive modern touches. Local wines are a feature, and the smooth service shows the team’s knowledge and care. If the chocolate and cherry dessert is on the menu, be sure to choose it.

Take in lovely views over the countryside and the lake from the terrace of this charming thatched building dating from 1822. The interior is full of historic character – it even boasts a hidden vaulted brick-built room which is used for private events – and the formal service suits the style of the place. Some unusual and rarely seen ingredients feature in well-crafted dishes; Tihany is famous for its lavender, so the ‘vinarius 200 tortaszelet’ dessert is a must.

A smart, modern wine bar in the livelier part of this seasonal town, Zelna is named after the wine company whose biodynamic wines it serves – and also offers for purchase. This is a place to kick back and relax, and the small menu mixes light bites with more substantial Hungarian dishes so you can tailor-make your own experience – the beef cheeks are a hit and be sure to save room for the golden walnut dumplings for dessert! Every table is located on the large terrace, which stays open until 2am.

It’s all in the name. Set in a small village on the southern banks of Lake Balaton, just a stone’s throw from the water, this intimate bistro follows a purely local ethos. From the fixtures and fittings to the furnishings and the food, everything you see has been produced in the region. The rustic small plates have a fittingly traditional Hungarian heart and come with bold flavours – you might find green pea soup with goat’s cheese and mint, followed by rabbit with vegetable sauce and bread pudding. Choose four per person or opt for the excellent value Chef’s Menu of current kitchen favourites