Ahn Lan Ninghai

This brand with a nation-wide presence started out as a seafood stall in Linhai in 1995. Xin Rong Ji opened this branch in 2013, in a restored villa in Linhai, set amid lush greenery and boasting lake views, and it has since become a pilgrimage destination for loyal customers. The menu features the chain's classics from across the decades, including its famous braised yellow croaker with sticky rice cake, which generated much buzz in the early days.

The simple room may be a bit dated, but the incredible smell of its beef blood curd soup is irresistibly enticing. Its signature soup is the classic comfort food of the landlocked county; chunks of silken blood curd and melty white radish nestle in a savoury broth seasoned with dried chillies. Their beef offal noodle soup is equally famous: the offal is meticulously crafted and the flavourful broth clings nicely to the springy noodles.

A mezzanine adds visual depth to the venue and the boat-shaped pendant light sports an oceanic theme. The owner, who used to sell seafood, cherry-picks each ingredient. Natural flavours always come first in his score with an emphasis on razor-sharp doneness and seasoning. Try his red-braised squid with a snappy bite and heady aromas. Steamed Sanmen mud crab with soy sauce and scallion oil boasts firm meat and buttery roe.

You can find Xin Rong Ji in all major Chinese cities these days, but this is their longest-standing outlet (in business since 2005). As in most Taizhou-style restaurants, diners pick their own seafood from the tanks and specify how they want it cooked. All-time favourites include golden fried beltfish with delicate flesh in a crispy crust, and braised sea anemone with glass noodles, which seduces with its flavoursome broth and lovely textures.

In a bright, airy space that is tastefully furnished in an antique gold colour scheme, the open kitchen and live seafood tanks are the centre of attention. Popular choices include yellow croaker, pomfret and lobster –pick your favourites and have them cooked in your preferred way. Must-tries include the crispy deep-fried beltfish belly, which is packed with umami and briny sweetness. The Taizhou-style braised crushed crab is pure decadence.

The three-storey restaurant may be rustic in style, but its novel take on familiar home-style flavours defies all expectations. The kitchen dreams up adventurous food combinations that work surprisingly well. Must-tries include pork dumplings in a deeply flavoured duck herbal broth that has been simmered for hours. A Taizhou meal is never complete without seafood, such as braised yellow croaker, white crab, or spicy whelks sautéed with aromatics.

For 10-plus years, this simple shop has focused on one item – bianshi dumplings that are steamed, deep-fried, pan-fried or served in soup. Each dumpling is generously filled with ground pork, mashed tofu and water bamboo shoots before being folded by hand into an ingot shape with its paper-thin wrapper draping like butterfly wings. Try their premium version of ginger juice egg custard; the ground pork and walnuts add lovely textures to the sweet treat.