Onsen Ryokan Yuen Bettei Tokyo Daita

‘The look surprises, the taste reassures.’ The chef’s passion for creativity makes his culinary spirit unique. Decoratively arranged sashimi are briefly heated to draw out moisture. The chef doesn’t serve soup dishes, as much of his cooking tailors the dashi stock to each dish. His freewheeling personality makes the evening fun, while the folk-art vibe of the interior, including a chest of drawers inherited from the chef’s grandparents, fills the air with memories and the warmth of family.

Reading the signs of the times, the third owner transformed this sushi restaurant, once known for its catering, into an omakase spot serving appetizers and nigiri. Despite the modern shift, traditional Edomae techniques like ageing, marinating, and curing the fish remain unchanged. The friendly chef creates a welcoming atmosphere, while his wife skilfully handles the grilled dishes. With meticulous craftsmanship and reasonable prices, it’s easy to see why this place is a local favourite.

Sushi got its start as hawker food that flourished in Edo (old Tokyo). To impart a feeling for that culture, Tachiguisushi Sushikawa is a standup sushi bar (and is what the name means). No drinking snacks; this is nigiri only, which you can order piece by piece according to your taste. Sushi toppings display an old-school craftsmanship. The chef harbours doubts about the recent trend of taking sushi up-market, which is why he recreated the atmosphere of a real-deal, no-nonsense sushi joint. A sushi local where regulars come to chat with the chef.

A trattoria where à la carte dining is encouraged with a comprehensive menu of regional cuisines. Pici served with tomato ragú laden with garlic and vegetable sformato are all flavours learned in the Italian countryside. A marble bar counter and Tuscan-style stone walls create a stylish space inspired by interiors in Tuscany. Steps from Shoin Shrine, this is Italian food culture with deep roots in daily life.

‘Lien’ is French for ‘connection’. The chef, a native of Aomori Prefecture, uses both ingredients and crockery from that region of northern Honshu. Serving salmon from the Tsugaru Strait and Aomori Shamorock chicken on Tsugaru Kanayama Yaki pottery, the chef connects guests with producers through his cuisine. The comprehensive prix fixe menu is imbued with this sense of human connection. ‘Lien’ may mean a feeling of connection, but it also means a bond.

‘Muku’ means ‘immaculate; innocent; pure’. The keynote white of the interior and the focus on the inherent flavours of ingredients are hallmarks of Tatsuki Mishima’s approach. In his native Shimane Prefecture, the chef worked at a fishmonger’s to learn about fish. He now gets his crab, abalone and rosy sea perch from that very shop, deepening relations between the two. Takikomi-gohan (rice dish seasoned with soy sauce and boiled with various ingredients) is followed by somen noodles or curry to fine-tune the palate. Tradition preserved, but with a playful spirit.

Creative dining focused on affinity with sake. Appetisers are served as a combination platter, the better to keep the libations flowing. Tsukuri feature ingenious arrangements of condiments. Uniquely, meat dishes are an indispensable part. Each dish is generous, making every morsel an unforgettable memory. The collection of sake and shochu, amassed on visits to breweries, is impressive; as the shop specialises in local tipples, the wine and whisky selection is also strictly Japanese.