Dongqu Light Inn

This is the place for a high-end omakase-style experience with a curated selection of tempura. Cherry-picked seasonal ingredients are coated in a light, golden, crispy batter that seals in the flavours and juices. The final product doesn’t taste at all greasy, is perfectly cooked with delicate textures. With 16 counter seats in two rooms, all the guests can admire the art of tempura up close.

The Argentinian owner-chef reimagines Latam cuisine through a distinctly Taiwanese lens. His tasting menu pays tribute to his cultural and culinary heritage, layering contrasts and flavours with all the finesse of haute cuisine. Locally sourced produce plays a pivotal role in dishes from short-neck clams in a tangy sauce made with chilli, parsley, coriander and pepper to salad greens dressed in wasabi leaf oil, or guava dusted with plum powder.

Hosu moved here in 2024, and the decor revolves around eco-friendly principles – a native five-needle pine adorns the courtyard; the walls are covered in oyster shell paint. The chef's 14-course set menu is a compilation of the greatest dishes of Taiwan's five major group of population. Featuring gems from local mountains and waters, it follows the seasons. Interactive elements make for a fun experience.

When it comes to tempura, precision is the name of the game. With decades of experience in Japanese cooking, the head chef brings out the best in every ingredient with his keen sense for oil blend, oil temperature and batter consistency, sealing in the umami with an incredibly thin, crisp and light batter. The simple, cosy room is decorated with Japanese garden details. Reservations are mandatory, with only two sittings, at 12.30pm and 6.30pm.

The interior follows Japanese tradition with pale wood, warm lighting and fabric-wrapped panels. Niigata rice is seasoned with three vinegars, including akazu that gives depth and umami. The owner also imports sake and the list changes constantly to match the seasonal ingredients available. This relaxed sushi spot also serves cooked dishes if pre-ordered. Note that it is not related in any way to its namesake in Tokyo.

Chef Wachi Isao is known for his insistence on freshness and his skilful layering of flavours. He serves omakase menus only, with items varying daily. The menus feature mostly raw fish and nigiri sushi at lunch; more cooked kappo dishes are served at dinner. The soup course stands out for its detail-oriented preparation – the minced fish dumpling made with seasonal produce forms the perfect marriage with the kelp bonito stock's nuances.

INITA, a portmanteau of Italy, Nippon (Japan) and Taiwan, delivers victuals that are underscored by Italian technique, jazzed up with Japanese twists and crafted with Taiwanese ingredients. The season-driven tasting menu consists of 10-plus courses inspired by the Japanese chef-owner’s culinary roots and experience. His dorayaki is a castella pancake sandwich filled with a tartare of local yellow beef, alongside an Italian tuna dip packed in briny umami.