A Stay In Hanoi

ONVIT means "warm light" in Korean – a hint at what awaits diners in the elegant, tranquil setting of this upscale restaurant. Chef Joon's tasting menu draws on fresh local Vietnamese ingredients and honours the traditions of his Korean heritage. His signature abalone porridge, prepared with prized ST25 rice and lifted by an abalone liver sauce, is comforting, considered and deeply Asian in soul. A choice of wine pairing menus complements the experience.

Gia đình, meaning "family", is a reference to chef Sam Tran and partner Long Tran's longing for their homeland during their years working abroad. The restaurant decor draws inspiration from the Temple of Literature just across the road. A single tasting menu is offered, showcasing the finest seasonal ingredients and drawing inspiration from the rich heritage of traditional Vietnamese cuisine. Deceptively complex, the beautifully crafted dishes showcase well-judged combinations of subtle flavours, with acidity and texture playing prominent roles.

Now with a two-storey expansion and lush courtyard, English-speaking staff and a photo menu, this vintage tea house is more tourist-friendly. It retains its North Vietnamese charm with antique decor, artwork and a rustic elegance, and continues to impart the essence of Vietnamese cuisine. Highlights include chả ốc (ham with periwinkle snails) served with herbs, vegetables, vermicelli and fish sauce, and the subtle crab soup with malabar spinach in a clear broth.

The owner couple strives to replicate the authentic taste of Northern Vietnam for their Hanoian audience. Unlike the sweet flavours cherished in other parts of Vietnam, here they emphasise umami and saltiness. Chả ốc is one of the most popular dishes. The pork sausage with periwinkle snails is perfumed with herbs and fried until crispy. The pork is juicy and bouncy in texture. Gà xáo gừng is chicken cooked in turmeric and ginger. Simply irresistible.

Guests are cosseted from start to finish during this theatrical dining experience at the 14-seat counter in the Capella Hanoi hotel basement. Affable Chef Hiroshi Yamaguchi skilfully cooks teppanyaki dishes that are rich and complex in flavour. The menu's distinct decadence is epitomised by the premium ingredients flown in fortnightly from Japan (abalone, spiny lobster, sea urchin and Hokkaido hairy crab). The certified Kyori beef arrives from Yaeyama monthly.

Buddhist art and statues infuse the space at Ưu Đàm with a calming, Zen atmosphere. Combining Vietnamese, Western and Thai influences, the vegetarian menu is anchored in tradition but is also mindful of nutritional balance. The stir-fried mushrooms and tofu paired with a crisp girdle cake is mildly spicy with complex layers of flavours; top-notch fresh ingredients shine throughout. The juice-based cocktails complete the vibrant, nutrient-rich meal.

This small bún chả shop has been serving loyal customers for over 10 years. In addition to the typical caramelised pork meatballs on rice vermicelli, you can ask for grilled pork belly or minced beef in betel leaf to go with the noodles – all served with a tangy, sweet broth. The spring roll, deep-fried to order, boasts crispy skin and a juicy filling with layers of rich flavours. Open until noon only, so come early to avoid missing out.