Shangri-La Yuanqu, Suzhou

This restaurant in a conveniently located shopping mall serves modern Chaozhou dishes alongside live seafood from Guangdong and Cantonese barbecue dishes grilled in-house. The angled luffa with Chaozhou beef balls, fish balls and pork sausage has a bouncy texture and the sweetness of cucumber. The sachima with olive kernels is an exclusive sweet with fluffy egg-fried batter bits. The set menus are great value. Booking recommended at peak times.

Inspired by the Classical Gardens of Suzhou, the decor sports slatted floor-to-ceiling windows, pendant lanterns and a view of a koi pond. In addition to cuisine from his hometown, the Yangzhou chef deftly prepares Suzhou dishes and roast duck. His original creation, ‘Lotus in southern pond’, consists of sweet pea-studded chicken patty as a pod, bamboo fungus bound by hairy moss as a root and a flavourful broth. Suzhou style dim sum is also worth trying.

Xiu is the Chinese word for embroidery, an art form for which Suzhou is famous. It makes sense that silk upholstery adorns the room, a feature that exudes elegance. The menu is made up of Jiangzhe dishes and a few Sichuan and Cantonese choices. Seasonal ingredients are shipped from all over the country, astutely prepared and perfectly seasoned. The deep-fried "squirrel" mandarin fish in sweet and sour sauce looks as good as it tastes.

A Chaozhou native himself, the chef knows his ingredients inside out and ensures dishes are made as authentically as possible. Preserved ingredients such as the aged dried radish in the beef soup, salted lemon in the duck soup, and green olives in the conch soup impart unique character and brighten the taste profiles. Deboned webs from 36-month-old geese are braised in a spiced marinade until gelatinous and flavoursome. Good views of Jinji Lake.

The elegant room in traditional Chinese style sports latticed screens and dark walnut furniture. In addition to Huaiyang classics like salt-brined goose, and shredded tofu soup, also try deep-fried, Suzhou-style fish in sweet soy that is crispy on the outside and juicy inside. Huaiyang wok-fried eel strips glisten in a shiny soy glaze, boasting bouncy flesh, a peppery kick and garlicky aromas. Also check out the seasonal lineup.

The head chef is a Suzhou native with over 30 years of experience in Jiangsu cooking. Only the freshest local produce makes it into his repertoire, which boasts spot-on seasoning and exceptional wok hei. His signature braised boneless beef cubes melt in the mouth; the sticky, briny-sweet dark soy sauce is rich and mellow. The steamed sponge cake, freshly made daily, is a great way to round things off. The open kitchen makes for an engaging experience.

Behind the name – a nod to Suzhou's famous Zhuozheng Garden – an eclectic decor melds traditional Chinese and bold modern aesthetics. At lunchtime, it's all about Suzhou noodles: the soy-based broth is packed with deep flavours, thanks to the condensed base of chicken and pork bone. At dinner, prix-fixe menus, tailored in advance, feature cuisine that fuses Jiangzhe, Suzhou and Cantonese styles, and may include the signature crispy-skin squab.