Heleni Maja Külalistemaja

Hotel Lydia welcomed its first guests in 2016, but its story stretches back to the 1800s – and it’s this heritage that inspired both the hotel’s name and that of its restaurant. Lydia Grünmann Hõlm, the founders’ beloved grandmother, is not just referenced here in name though, as it’s her recipes that shape the cuisine, taken from a cookbook she wrote in 1925. That’s not to say that this restaurant is traditional; in fact, it’s quite the opposite. This a smart, modern spot both in looks and style, where the cooking takes on an ambitious, contemporary approach that comprises many different elem

On the banks of the Emajõgi River, which runs through the centre of Tartu, you’ll find this modern whitewashed building that is the sister of Tuljak, NOA and NOA Chef’s Hall. In winter, cosy up in the homely interior; in summer, head out to the pavement terrace or up to the rooftop to really make the most of the location. Expect a short menu with international leanings – you might find ‘TOKO Taco’ (chicken thighs on a paratha) or black cod with miso and beurre blanc – and if you fancy starting with a touch of luxury they offer a 'bump' of salty caviar. A sundowner here is an absolute must.

A shopping centre might not be the first spot that comes to mind for a night out, but Joyce – part of the V Spa hotel that adjoins the Kvartal complex – is certainly worth a visit. A large, split-level brasserie with bold modern décor, it comes with a buzzy vibe that grows throughout the day and peaks late at night. Start with a drink in the cocktail bar, then move on to an appealing selection of creative local and Baltic dishes that are not only pleasing to the eye, but pack a punch with their flavours too. The name doesn't refer to a person but to the fact that there’s ‘Joy’ and ‘Choice’ to

Hidden away in the Estonian countryside, this intimate restaurant occupies a former gatehouse within the Maidla Estate. There's an industrial-chic quality to the décor, with brick walls and exposed ducting, alongside a selection of antique and re-purposed furnishings that feel in keeping with such a historic building. The cooking uses local ingredients but reinterprets them using global flavours, across a tasting menu that can be accompanied by either alcoholic or non-alcoholic pairings to enhance the experience.