FULL STAY

Noodles dressed in sesame sauce impart a hint of lemony fragrance, a perfect match for egg drop miso soup.

In the 1950s, the family started serving boldly seasoned food to go with alcoholic drinks. The third-generation owner still follows the same family recipes from those days. Their signature deep-fried ribs are made with local pork, fried twice to seal in the juices and to crisp up the crust. For a final dose of indulgence, order the prime mullet roe fried rice with a generous amount of finely diced bottarga imbued with smoky wok hei.

A portmanteau of Taiwan and terroir, Taïrroir is Chef Kai's love letter to his home island. Informed by his two decades of experience in Taiwanese and French cuisines, the menu captures local food culture in ingenious forms, underscored by Western techniques. Dishes that are wittily named to rhyme with idioms feature highly seasonal items from local producers; desserts made with local teas and fruit shine with unmistakably Taiwanese flavours.

In contrast with the austere façade, the plush interior is adorned with warm wood and colourful art by local artists. Chef Jim Yang has been cooking Hangzhou and Jiangzhe fare for over 30 years. In his 10-course set menu, he tells his life story with home-style recipes reinvented using European techniques. Expect ingredients that are less common in Chinese cuisine (e.g. saffron, cheese and Japanese seaweed). The tea pairings bring out the best in the food.

In a palette of muted greens and greys, the lofty space is a masterclass in understated elegance. La Vie is managed by German chef Bühner and a Hong Kong chef presides in the kitchen. The prix-fixe reimagines European classics using locally sourced ingredients – dishes are elaborate and visually striking. Game, such as New Zealand venison, is prepared with aplomb and finesse. Desserts such as the chocolate tart end the meal on a high note.

The former head chef has been promoted to executive chef and the kitchen is now helmed by his long-standing protégé. Rest assured that the menu has not changed and is as meticulously crafted as ever. The signature dish, stewed Chinese cabbage with fish skin, is topped with a fried crunchy garnish made with duck eggs from Yilan, while the honey mustard-glazed ribs exude tangy fruitiness thanks to black jujube dates in the sauce.

This long-standing favourite appeals to locals with Edomae sushi made with Hokkaido rice dressed in veteran chef’s own blend of red vinegars, and the finest fish that he ages himself. The tuna stands out in particular, while various zensai ranging from unagi to abalone work up your appetite for the main course. Counter seats let you stay close to the action, but the room allows for more privacy. Often fully booked, but it’s worth persevering.