Atour Hotel Wujiang Suzhou

Tucked away in the Pingjiang historic quarter, this restaurant was remodelled from an ancient mansion encompassing the quintessence of classical Suzhou garden and architecture. Similarly, the season-driven menu is based heavily on Suzhou culinary traditions, enlivened by modern twists. Mantis shrimps with soft roe are dressed in fermented rice lees marinade and topped with caviar. The duck soup with ham and fox nuts presents rich flavours and deep umami.

This wonton shop doubles as a cultural hub for Kunqu opera lovers – the owner is a Kunqu singer and named the shop after a character he plays in The Peony Pavillion. The room is dotted with opera photos, memorabilia and sheet music written in ancient Chinese notation. As for the score, the wontons are generously stuffed with an array of fillings, such as the signature abalone and pork variety, and served in a flavourful broth drizzled in scallion oil.

This Cantonese chef champions a fusion menu that melds Suzhou and Cantonese influences, ranging from timeless classics to painstaking heritage recipes. Nanjing-style braised goose is steeped in an aromatic marinade with over 30 types of herbs for hours. The mandarin fillet golden chrysanthemum fish is meticulously sliced and deep-fried. Everything is made to order so expect to wait. A limited number of private rooms require booking well in advance.

With a red façade and a cheeky sculpture of a ‘squirrel’ mandarin fish by its door, you cannot fail but notice A Cheng. Since 1999, it has been famous not only for fish, but also Suzhou classics like sweet and sour pork ribs – tender pork in a tangy sauce with spot-on acidity. The sautéed white assortment delivers varied textures with pork tripe, chicken, bamboo shoot and shrimps, while the peppery kick brings out the umami.

A whitewashed two-storey building with a tiled roof is home to this reincarnation of a noodle stall founded in 1931. The delightfully ornate interior pays homage to traditional Chinese decor. Suzhou noodles are either served in a soy-based or clear broth, or tossed in sauces. There are tens of toppings to choose from – if in doubt, go for any of the popular combinations. The shrimp trio with shrimps, their roe and tomalley is too good to be missed.

Most of the kitchen team hails from Yangzhou, so it is no surprise that the elegantly appointed restaurant specialises in Yangzhou cuisine. Handmade dim sum is the must-try. Served piping hot, the soup dumpling with crabmeat and crab roe filling is wrapped in wafer-thin dough and meticulously pleated by hand. Enjoy the soup with a straw before biting into the plump dumpling. Other traditional Yangzhou dishes are also worth checking out. Bookings recommended.

Red columns, tiled roofs and lanterns evoke the quintessence of Chinese architecture. On the menu, Suzhou noodles take centre stage, with Fengzhen-style pork noodles being a highlight (available May-Oct only). The white broth is loaded with umami and homemade wine lees impart depth and sweetness. In winter, try the braised pork noodles in a soy-based broth, and sautéed matsutake mushroom. Round off your meal with osmanthus fox nut sweet soup.