The LINs House

Bawan has been around for over a century in Taiwan – the savoury filling is wrapped in a translucent dough, steamed and served with a sweet-savoury sauce. This shop, opened in 2012, is a relative newcomer, but their smaller version stuffed with spear shrimps and pork shoulder butt have instantly won the hearts of gourmets in Tainan. Try it with a dribble of mustard, or pair it with Sishen soup or shiitake pork soup. Check their media page for closing.

Xingang, in Chiayi County, is famous for its duck thick soup – at Yeh San, you can taste the real thing without travelling there! The owner used to run a duck thick soup shop in Xingang and, when he relocated to Tainan in 2021, he decided to introduce his treasured recipe to locals. The duck is stir-fried in a small pot for lovely wok hei; garlic and bamboo shoots are added for extra depth and aromas. The duck rice is another top choice.

Circa 1949, it was a hawker stall in the Dongmen Traffic Circle before moving here in the 1960s. Now into the second generation, the family business still attracts a loyal fanbase thanks to its duck noodle soup made with the Chinese herb Dang Gui (a.k.a. Chinese angelica root). The amber broth has rounded flavours, a lingering aftertaste and a hint of bitterness. With freshly slaughtered duck and al dente noodles, it makes for a wholesome meal.

With bar stools, a show kitchen and a soundtrack of Mandarin golden oldies, this self-proclaimed lab experiments with noodle recipes from around the world, serving up bold creations that impress with depth and layers of flavours. The menu changes with the seasons, and the same bowl can include produce from different culinary cultures – bopi chillies, red miso, sambal, green papaya and even ratatouille, to name but a few.

In 1946, this rice cake joint opened its doors in South District, away from the city’s busy tourist spots. It has ever been a hit with the locals who can’t get enough of its addictive migao, topped with braised pork sauce, fish floss, cucumber and peanuts. The second-generation owner insists on making migao just like his father did: the sticky rice is soaked, steamed and kept warm in a woven reed tub next to the stove to keep it moist and chewy.

A household name for over 60 years, Amei was remodelled when it moved to this venue. Red tablecloths add colour to the wood-rich interior. The small menu is big on banquet classics and century-old recipes, combining the natural umami of ingredients with the locals’ love of savoury-sweet dishes. Rou mi xia is a thick broth of diced veggies topped with deep-fried whiskered velvet shrimps from Anping. Ask about items that need pre-ordering when booking.

Fu Tai Table began as a street vendor over 80 years ago, but not until 2015 did it have a permanent address. It's the perfect place to experience the unique fan zhuo zai culture – diners order a bowl of braised pork rice with several small plates that arrive at the table stacked on top of each other on a tray. Look for the menu on the blackboard. Made fresh daily, the soup with assorted meatballs is also worth trying for its bouncy texture and deep umami.