Paris Méditerranée
The name pays tribute to singer-songwriter Georges Brassens, a local lad, and also to Mediterranean cuisine which takes pride of place on the menu, depending on the chef’s mood, (a former Parisian) and the catch of the day. In a quiet side street near the canal, the chef deftly crafts fresh, mainly maritime produce, with a weakness for forthright, no-nonsense flavours such as sashimi of flathead grey mullet and cream of smoked anchovy. We tasted a heart-warming slab of hake served with homemade gnocchi flavoured with wild garlic. Fried squid, risotto and spicy stock is another house specialty.