Comfort Inn Kyoto

This fare shows equal reverence for the aesthetics and traditions of Japanese cuisine and for classical works of art. The teahouse-style interior that greets guests is appointed with hanging scrolls, vases and other accoutrements accumulated over many years. To harmonise with the serving-ware, cuisine is presented simply, accentuating the beauty of blank spaces. Knowledge of home-brewed sake and fermentation pay tribute to traditional foods. ‘Doppo’, meaning ‘unique’, was a favourite phrase of epicure Rosanjin Kitaoji, a devotee of beauty in all its manifestations.

Next to Shimogamo Shrine, surrounded by the Tadasu-no-Mori forest, lies Kyokaiseki Kichisen. The chef, a devotee of Japanese cuisine and the performing arts, built a ryotei on this spot. Respectful of Kyoto traditions, menu items are accompanied by charming details. Lids of soup dishes are emblazoned with dew, expressing freshness. Tuna sashimi is arrayed like a sea of clouds, creating a fairytale-like scene. Serving dishes of Kyoyaki ceramics, garnished with fresh-cut flowers, beguile the eyes. A unique interpretation of Kyoto kaiseki, accompanied by the spirit of graceful service.

The chef prizes ‘combinations of flavours and aromas’. His mentor in Paris, Christian Le Squer, taught him to seek out new flavours by developing the sensibility of a perfumer. Experience and ideas come together in the ‘Warm Salad’. Vegetables picked in the Takagamine district of Kyoto’s Kita Ward are cooked in a variety of ways, drawing the flavour of each to the fore. Interplay of aromas between char-grilled meat dishes and their sauces express this fare’s unique character.

The menu evokes the changing seasons and traditional culture of Japan. The proprietor is an accomplished gourmet whose deep knowledge comes from experience as a fishmonger and attentive reading of literature. Hassun platters, garnished with flowers as if to paint a picture of nature, showcase the ideas and origins found in the foods of traditional festivals. Behind each meticulously crafted dish breathes the living aesthetic and customs of Japanese cuisine.

At lunchtime, only omakase set menus are offered; in the evening, à la carte dishes are also served. Ikkon Uehara aims to cater to a regular clientele, so the menu is comprehensive and the cuisine lovingly prepared. An assorted platter loaded with appetisers show that the old ways are not forgotten. A wooden bowl of fishcake steeped in a clear broth is classic comfort food. The counter is a horigotatsu; behind the counter, the couple in charge deliver cheerful and gracious service. Tip a cup or two of sake and feel the seasons change.

This long-serving restaurant was built as a general store and traded as a sake dealer before transforming into a ryotei. In continuous operation since its founding three centuries ago, Mankamero has preserved tradition by constantly changing. Heir to the tradition of ‘yusoku ryori’, banquet fare served at imperial court functions, the restaurant carries on the Ikama school of ‘shikibocho’, the ceremonial art of knife handling that unites cookery with etiquette—faithfully preserved to the present day. Seasons are reflected everywhere, from the elegant Kyoto kaiseki to the arrangements, serving

The rice is seasoned with rice vinegar and salt; the chef doesn’t use sugar, preferring to draw out sweetness from the fish instead. To ensure compatibility with the sushi rice, he pays attention to the temperature of the toppings. Though it depends on the preparation, he likes to start the hand-formed sushi with light-flavoured squid, so you can taste the sushi rice. Blueback fish are seasoned with buds of the pepper tree, white-fleshed fish with a paste of chilli peppers and yuzu zest. Mackerel sushi and steamed sushi are served from autumn to winter, in true Kyoto style.