Domaine De Kerstinec

Imagine wild moorland buffeted by the ocean with the rocky island of Raguenez glinting in the sunshine just a short distance away. Sustainable gastronomy is the name of the game here: the ingredients are strictly seasonal, harvested from the vegetable garden or sourced from small-scale producers, and the fish is caught locally. Comfortably seated with a view of the sea, diners enjoy Jérôme Gourmelen's dishes, characterised by well-defined flavours and careful presentation, eg his symphony of raw ikejime fish. Friendly service.

This restaurant pays tribute to Mélanie Rouat (1878-1954), a friend of Curnonsky and a two-star chef in her day. Her great-great grandson, chef Jean-Baptiste Caillarec, and his pastry chef partner, Laura Martinon, both of whom boast stints in prestigious establishments, have opened this bright, contemporary restaurant, fronted by a lovely courtyard patio that is taken by storm in fine weather. The pair painstakingly sources top-quality ingredients, which they craft into succulent dishes: hot and cold clams, creamy parsley and dulse; ‘Mélanie’ lobster in cream; a new twist on oatmeal flan.

This restaurant is tucked away in a side street set back from the marina and the walled city. Harmony reigns in the kitchen, where a duo of chefs composes dishes made with ultra-fresh ingredients. Locally sourced produce takes pride of place on the menu: buckwheat, the daily catch of small local boats, Brittany-reared pork, Bruyère Blanche poultry, farm-range eggs, without forgetting the excellent homemade bread.

Res nostra mare (or "the sea is our law") is the motto featured on chef Romain Paillet's website and, indeed, his modern, Japanese-inspired cuisine relies solely on what the sea has to offer. The ingredients, such as tuna belly, are impeccably fresh. Thanks to well-balanced condiments and preparations, each plate has plenty of pep… as does the chef, who, passionate about what he does, spends a lot of time in the dining area mingling with his customers. In line with the chef's cooking, the decor has blue walls and more than the odd nod to Japan. The kitchen, literally in the centre of the space