The Kilpeck Inn

It's hard not to love Walnut Tree; it's got a cosy, open-fired bar, a dining room adorned with colourful art, and owners who run it with heart and soul. Shaun Hill, the quintessential chef’s chef, has been here for over 20 years and has a great understanding of flavours and balance. His overtly seasonal cooking blends the classical and the modern across dishes that are prepared with a no-frills, yet consistently delicious approach. Fish is a particular strength, be it red mullet with dashi or cod with brown shrimps, and the muscat crème caramel is a great way to finish.

Nestled in a lush valley bordered by the Black Mountains, this former drovers' inn is separated from Hay-on-Wye by a six-mile single-track road. It retains a homely charm, boasting flagstone floors, slate walls and open fires. Unfussy, ingredient-led cooking is natural, wholesome and full of flavour, with meats from the owners’ farm, homemade charcuterie and a traditional roast on Sundays. Low intervention wines feature alongside a fine selection of beers. Book one of the cabins to allow more time for countryside exploring.